Ferrata Uiberlacher

Overview

The route leads to the summit of Creta di Aip (Trogkofel) via the Uiberlachersteig via ferrata on the Austrian side, then descends along the normal Italian route. This is a medium-difficulty hike where the approach, though long, unfolds in an alpine setting of remarkable scenic impact.

Approach

The starting point is Passo del Cason di Lanza (1552 m), in the province of Udine, accessible from Paularo or Pontebba. The access from Pontebba, via the highway exit of the same name on the A23, is usually preferable for better road conditions. At the pass, there is ample parking and refreshment services.

From the parking lot, take the forest road that climbs behind the large mountain hut. After a short stretch, at a switchback, turn right following trail marker 439, heading toward Casera di Val Dolce, reachable in about 30 minutes. From here, a beautiful view of Creta di Aip opens up. Briefly returning to the gravel road, continue to a marked junction at about 1750 meters elevation (roughly 1 hour from the parking lot).

Take the trail that climbs decisively toward the imposing eastern and southern walls of the mountain. Looking back, you see the majestic silhouette of Zermula on the opposite side of the valley. Reaching the base of the rock walls, you encounter a marked junction: to the left, the trail for the start of the Ferrata delle Crete Rosse begins. Ignoring this turnoff, continue climbing until you gain the grassy saddle east of Creta di Aip (2017 m), entering Austrian territory.

From here, a well-marked trail (marker 413) bends left, indicated for the via ferrata. Climb steeply along the east face on a traverse that winds over grassy and scree slopes, up to a switchback where it's convenient to put on your harness. Continuing, following red-blue marks, you finally reach the start of the Uiberlachersteig via ferrata, near a metal ladder and a commemorative marble plaque. The approach time from the parking lot is about 2 hours and 45 minutes. The approach, while presenting no technical difficulties, is physically demanding and progressively prepares you for the rocky environment, alternating wooded sections with panoramic ledges.

Via Ferrata

The progression begins by overcoming a couple of rock steps and tackling the first metal ladder. Immediately after, an exposed equipped trail section leads along a ledge to the left, offering the first aerial views of the basin below. Then, tackle some rocky steps that lead left, toward a gully.

After climbing some rock slabs, traverse the base of the gully on the left side, always clipped into the cable, until you notice a red arrow painted on a large boulder. This indicates crossing to the opposite side of the gully. Climb a series of sloping slabs to reach a point where the metal equipment temporarily ends. From here, you can clearly see the arrival station of the Austrian cable car.

Follow the trail on rock, overcoming some easy unprotected rock steps toward a dihedral. The cable resumes to the right of this rather wide and steep dihedral, while a metal ladder climbs on the left side. After climbing the ladder, at the exit you encounter a series of iron handholds that allow you to overcome the upper part of the dihedral.

The route then bends right, entering a small gully, inside which a second metal ladder is installed. Once climbed, exit on the right side of the gully. After a short stretch of equipped rock steps, follow the trail markers (red-blue or white-red-yellow) along a succession of unprotected but modestly difficult rock steps.

Finally, reach an easy chimney, equipped on the right side, which is climbed. The cable continues briefly over more rock steps before ending definitively. From here, follow a high-altitude trail over mixed terrain of stones and grass. Following the obvious track, you arrive at the metal cross marking the summit of Creta di Aip (2280 m). The time from the start of the via ferrata is about 1 hour, for a total of 3 hours and 45 minutes from the parking lot. The via ferrata develops mainly on solid dolomitic rock, with a more horizontal than vertical progression, characterized by continuous but not overly strenuous movement, punctuated by a few more demanding technical passages that add variety to the rhythm.

Descent

From the summit, descend following the signs for Rattendorfer Alm (trail marker 416) in a southwest direction. Cross the summit plateau and, about 200 meters below the summit, tackle some steep passages that lead into a gully. This is descended via a rather vertical equipped section, which requires attention.

After overcoming this key passage, continue descending until you join trail 403 (about 45 minutes from the summit). At this junction, instead of returning via trail 439, it is recommended to continue west along trail 403. This route, with no technical difficulties, offers a beautiful panoramic stretch and leads to Sella di Val Dolce (1781 m) in about another 45 minutes.

From the saddle, take trail 458 to the left, which descends with switchbacks until reaching Casera del Cason di Lanza and, shortly after, the starting parking lot (1522 m). The descent time from the summit is about 2 hours and 15 minutes, for a total loop of about 6 hours. The descent has a varied rhythm: initially technical and exposed in the equipped gully, it becomes more relaxed and scenic along the ridge trail, concluding with a calm drop through the forest.

Useful Notes

The Uiberlachersteig via ferrata is considered medium difficulty and, for long stretches, resembles more of an equipped trail than a true via ferrata, presenting only a couple of more challenging vertical passages. The approach is long but unfolds in a very evocative environment.

Special attention should be paid during the descent from the Creta di Aip plateau, especially in the equipped gully and in case of wet or slippery ground. In conditions of fog or poor visibility, orientation in this area may not be immediate.

The described itinerary combines the ascent from the Austrian side with the descent from the Italian side. For a more challenging variant, it is possible to ascend from the Italian side via the Ferrata delle Crete Rosse. The area of Passo del Cason di Lanza offers other interesting mountaineering opportunities, such as the ascent of Zermula via the Ferrata degli Amici della Montagna or Zuc della Guardia via the Ferrata degli Alpini.