Ferrata Norina al Cimone

Overview

This itinerary describes the ascent of Monte Cimone from the Val Dogna side, using the Ferrata Norina as the main access route. It is a complete and demanding route that combines a long forest approach, a river crossing, and a moderately difficult via ferrata to reach the Bivacco Del Torso, an ideal base camp for the final push to the summit. The hike requires excellent physical fitness, full climbing gear, and a good dose of endurance.

Approach

Access is from the Val Dogna, reachable from Dogna (UD). After crossing the bridge over the stream, follow about 4 km of paved road to a hairpin turn, where a CAI signpost indicates a narrow pull-off for parking.

From here, the CAI trail 640 begins, descending quickly into the thick forest, losing about 100 meters of elevation down to the riverbed. With the metal bridge destroyed, fording the Dogna stream is mandatory. In summer conditions, this is doable, with water generally below knee level, but it requires caution. Once back on the opposite bank, trail 640 resumes climbing steeply through the woods on a steady, tiring slope. Ignoring the junction for CAI 651, continue to the Bivacco Cividale at 1414 meters. The stretch from the parking lot to the bivouac takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes, of which 2 hours are from the ford.

From the bivouac, the route continues on a slight false flat, at times poorly marked and overgrown with vegetation. Ignoring the junction for CAI 655, follow a painted rock marking toward the ferrata. Watch out for a couple of gullies that can hold residual snow even in late spring. The landscape gradually changes: the forest thins, the trail becomes rockier and more exposed, with a few short sections equipped with fixed ropes, until it leads to the start of the Ferrata Norina at 1807 meters. The entire approach from the parking lot takes about 4 hours and 45 minutes, or 2 hours and 30 minutes from Bivacco Cividale.

Via Ferrata

The Ferrata Norina begins with an initial section in a narrow rocky gully, followed by an airy trail and a rather narrow equipped ledge. The route then unfolds across slabs and buttresses of solid, climbable rock, featuring a mix of Grade II moves and a few isolated, more challenging sections. The ground is often covered in scree, which requires particular attention when choosing footholds.

The climb continues among fractured rocks and a series of equipped chutes, while the surroundings become progressively more severe and panoramic. The itinerary is very logical, following the path of least resistance up the wall. You tackle and overcome a highly exposed arete, then continue alternating easy stretches with short, more technical connecting sections.

You reach a shallow chimney, easily overcome thanks to a few stirrups, to gain elevation. After more passages over rocky terrain, you arrive at the route's most distinctive section: a narrow, rather gloomy gully capped by a boulder. You traverse it to emerge in a nice stemming move. From this point, the view suddenly opens onto the nearby Monte Cimone and the Bivacco Del Torso. With a few minutes of downhill walking, you reach the bivouac at 2110 meters. The ferrata takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes, for a total time from the start of the hike of about 6 hours.

From the Bivacco Del Torso, you can consider the climb complete or continue toward the summit of Monte Cimone. The trail runs laterally along the ridge and allows you to reach the top in about 45 minutes from the bivouac, bringing the total ascent time to about 7 hours.

Descent

From the summit of Monte Cimone, return via the same route. The full descent, including the via ferrata in reverse and the ford, takes about 6 hours from the summit, making the total time for the day hike about 13 hours.

Useful Notes

Given the length, elevation gain, and the need to traverse the equipped route in descent as well as repeat the ford, it is strongly recommended to split the itinerary over two days. Both the Bivacco Del Torso and the Bivacco Cividale are in excellent condition and provide valuable support for this rewarding and secluded hike.

The view from the summit of Monte Cimone over the Jof di Montasio and the Canin is extraordinary. Maximum caution is required during the stream ford and when crossing the gullies before the start of the ferrata; early in the season, snow gear (crampons, ice axe) may be essential. Some sections of the approach trail have slippery ground and exposure, demanding a steady step and experience. The final climb from the bivouac to Cimone includes a couple of rocky passages (maximum Grade I). It is not uncommon to encounter wildlife along this route, which is reserved for experienced hikers.

The Ferrata Norina was built in the early 1980s to create a connection between the Val Dogna and Val Roccolana, dedicated to the mother of its creator Ivano Baracchini by the Rocciatori group of the CAI Cividale.