Ferrata alla Forcella del Sassolungo

Overview

The Via Ferrata alla Forcella del Sassolungo, also known as the Ferrata Furcela de Saslonch, is a recently equipped route, inaugurated in 2022. It lies in the heart of the Dolomites, within the Sassopiatto and Sassolungo group, on the border between Val Gardena and Val di Fassa. Classified as moderate difficulty, it offers a dynamic and rewarding alternative for reaching the Rifugio Toni Demetz, providing exceptional views of the massifs surrounding the Passo Sella during the ascent. The route combines vertical sections on solid rock with exposed traverses along ledges, creating a varied and scenic itinerary that makes the most of the typical Dolomitic morphology.

Approach

The starting point is at the base station of the cable car that rises from Passo Sella (2180 m) toward the refuge. The pass is easily accessible from both Canazei in Val di Fassa and Selva in Val Gardena. Two options are available for accessing the via ferrata. The first involves taking the cable car up to the Rifugio Demetz (2685 m), saving about an hour of walking; from there, descend briefly along trail 525 until you spot, on the right, the signs for the start of the route. The second option, entirely on foot, follows the CAI trail 525 from the parking area; after about 45-50 minutes of walking (one hour total from the start), signs on the left mark the beginning of the Ferrata Forcella del Sassolungo. This approach allows you to gradually appreciate the rising walls of the Sassolungo.

Via Ferrata

The route immediately presents a challenge, with a decisive character typical of many Dolomitic via ferratas. The first meters are vertical, climbing a dihedral of dark rock via a short but distinct initial overhang. The first metal fixtures assist for three meters, before a traverse to the right begins to gain altitude. After rounding a corner, you follow a narrow ledge to the left for about ten meters-an airy passage offering the first glimpses of the valley below. Next comes a satisfying vertical section on well-gripped rock rich in natural holds, making for a continuous and enjoyable progression.

Once past this small wall, you find yourself on the left side of a gully, which you cross, then continue to the right along a more comfortable ledge. After rounding a corner to the left, you position yourself beneath a step near a dihedral, aided by stirrups. The climb, logical and on jagged rock, is very pleasant and leads in a few minutes to a grassy terrace-a natural pause in the vertical rhythm.

The route resumes to the left along a ledge that progressively narrows, evolving into an exposed traverse until reaching a typical Dolomitic gully. Here, the cable climbs diagonally with considerable physical effort (but with excellent footholds) up to a short overhanging step, where stirrups ease the technical difficulty, though an initial dynamic move is required. The exit from this chimney is thrilling, with the imposing spires of the Sassolungo and Sassopiatto towering above in a majestic panorama. Continue until you reach the summit register box (about 30-40 minutes from the start), where a wooden bench invites a scenic rest.

The route then ascends some small rock steps, reaches a new corner, and makes a traverse to the right, from which the Rifugio Demetz comes into view-our destination. You now move onto the ridge crest, easy but exposed, which you follow with gentle ups and downs-a more relaxed section with an open atmosphere. A steeper stretch requires a brief downclimb toward a small notch.

Beyond this, the cable resumes vertically and then over easy rock steps, up to a beautiful yellowish slab. You overcome a first more demanding step, climb vertically again to a worked dihedral, and continue for about fifty meters on pleasant rock, returning to the ridge crest with a fine passage through a narrow chimney. The ridge is now "ridden" on both sides in a succession of nice moves, until, after a few meters, the refuge reappears just steps away. The short equipped descent begins, leading in a few minutes to the end of the fixed gear. The via ferrata takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the start, for a total of about 2 hours and 30 minutes from the departure on foot from Passo Sella. The itinerary skillfully alternates technical and vertical sections with more horizontal and scenic stretches, maintaining a consistent level of engagement.

Descent

From the end of the via ferrata, a short descending trail leads in 10 minutes to the Rifugio Demetz (2685 m), for a total of about 2 hours and 40 minutes. From here, you can return to Passo Sella using the cable car, or descend on foot along trail 525, which takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes of walking (total hike about 4 hours). The descent on foot completes the loop, offering a different perspective on the group.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Forcella del Sassolungo is modern, in excellent condition, and never dull-very varied and climbable. The rock, in some sections, can still be friable or contain debris, given its recent opening; therefore, caution with loose stones is necessary. Its proximity to Passo Sella allows you to tackle a quality itinerary in a magnificent environment, with the advantage of finishing at a welcoming refuge. From the Rifugio Demetz, you can continue toward the Rifugio Vicenza and other hikes in the group. A very challenging but feasible option for well-trained hikers with an early start is the connection with the Ferrata Schuster to the summit of Sassopiatto. The area offers numerous other possibilities, such as the short Ferrata al Col Rodella or the more demanding Ferrata delle Mesules toward the Sella Group. The character of the route is predominantly technical and scenic, with constant exposure that requires good confidence in high mountain terrain.