Sferrati
Ferrata della Pace
OpenMedium

Ferrata della Pace

Croda del Vallon Bianco · Bolzano · Italy

Technical data

Open
Difficulty
Medium
Total duration
10 h
Distance
20,2 km
Elevation gain
300 m

Times and altitude

Approach
3 h
Ferrata time
4 h
Max altitude
2781 m

Description

Normal

Overview

The Ferrata della Pace is a demanding alpine itinerary, classified as medium difficulty but with a length and elevation gain that require excellent physical fitness and endurance. The route blends historical interest-linked to the positions of the Great War-with a sweeping, panoramic journey. Planning must be meticulous, as the approach and return times are considerable, making it suitable only for experienced and well-trained hikers.

Approach

The recommended starting point is the Rifugio Stella Alpina (1725 m), accessible from the Passo di Valparola coming from the Val Badia via San Cassiano and Armentarola, or by descending from the Passo Falzarego. A longer alternative is to start from the Rifugio Pederù.

From the refuge, take trail 11, almost immediately veering left for the climb to Col de Locia (2070 m, 45 minutes). The route continues on the wide trail 11, which runs on a false flat through a broad, debris-filled basin, crossing several wooden bridges until reaching Forcella Ju d'Ega (2158 m, 1 hour and 30 minutes total). Ignore the left fork and briefly descend into the valley below.

At a junction with a view of Malga Fanes Grande, turn right onto trail 17 (2107 m, 20 minutes from the fork, about 2 hours total). The climb becomes steeper, heading toward the ridge that separates the Croda del Vallon Bianco from the Furcia Rossa, ignoring a first right turn. At the next junction (2250 m), continue straight on the VB trail toward the Vallon Bianco. Keep climbing to a plaque at 2400 m (3 hours total), where the trail splits: left for the Vallon Bianco and right for the Furcia Rossa. The complete itinerary combines both routes.

Via Ferrata

The ascent begins by following the equipped trail toward the Croda del Vallon Bianco, a wide but very exposed route, featuring bridges and catwalks on the steepest sections. You traverse a military-origin path that winds along the mountainside, alternating grassy ledges with short, debris-filled gullies. After about 30 minutes, near a dry-stone wall, a faint track to the right leads in 15-20 minutes to the Bivacco Baccon Barborka (4 bunks). Continuing, the trail presents equipped sections with wooden catwalks and bridges. After a short descent along a ledge, you tackle several catwalks, a sturdy suspension bridge, and other small bridges. Climbing a series of switchbacks, the summit of the Croda del Vallon Bianco (2684 m) is reached via a final sequence of ledge passages. You first arrive at the summit register, then the cross on the broad summit plateau (1 hour from the 2400 m junction, about 4 hours total).

To complete the loop, return to the junction with the signpost at 2400 m (45 minutes from the summit, 4 hours and 45 minutes total). At this point, it is crucial to assess your energy and remaining time for the return (about 10 hours total).

From the junction, follow the left sign for the Ferrata Furcia Rossa, traversing a long debris-covered ledge beneath the mountain's dark walls. Before the actual start, you tackle an interesting descent down a chimney, first with a rope and then a series of metal ladders: two vertical, two leaning, and one final vertical. From a small terrace, a steep trail leads to the saddle between Furcia Rossa II and III.

From the saddle, a few meters to the right begin the first meters of the ferrata toward Furcia Rossa III: a series of rock steps diagonally to the right, an unprotected trail section, and another rock step section. You traverse an equipped ledge and begin climbing a series of metal ladders. After the first ladder, a diagonal ramp and some rock steps lead to the second. A more challenging diagonal section and a short trail bring you to the third ladder. This leads to the key passage: a vertical wall equipped with metal stirrups. Technically not difficult, it is decidedly exposed, and the first few meters are slightly overhanging. Exiting the wall, you ascend a chimney staying on the right side, then follow the ridge to reach the sparse summit cross (2791 m), with a bench made from cannon wheels beside it, commemorating the fierce battles of the Great War (1 hour from the junction, 5 hours and 45 minutes total).

From the summit, to the south you can see Monte Castello. Descend toward the saddle between Furcia Rossa III and IV, on the west side of the latter. The descent is equipped with two leaning metal ladders, an unprotected trail section, two newer, more vertical and exposed ladders, a ledge section, and more metal ladders descending the ridge with a final, rather vertical rope section.

Having descended about 200 meters, you must now climb back up along the mountainside to the Bivacco della Pace (2760 m), located below Monte Castello, where the via ferrata effectively ends (1 hour and 15 minutes from the summit of Furcia Rossa III, 7 hours total).

Descent

From Monte Castelletto, descend into the Vallon Bianco valley on the west side, following trail 17 in a constant descent to the junction encountered on the approach. Still on trail 17, descend rapidly to Malga Gran Fanes (2102 m, 1 hour and 15 minutes from Monte Castello, 8 hours and 15 minutes total). From here, retrace the approach trail: climb back to Forcella Ju d'Ega (2157 m), cross the Gran Pian valley, ascend to Col de Locia, then descend to the starting point at Rifugio Stella Alpina (10 hours total).

Useful Notes

The itinerary is technically of medium difficulty, but extremely long and lightly traveled, with a demanding approach and return. It is absolutely necessary to tackle it only in stable weather conditions. The bivouacs are far apart, and bad weather in this area could cause serious problems. The route winds through a magnificent environment, never excessively difficult, with exceptional views of the Fanes, Tofane, and Dolomiti di Badia groups. You may consider overnighting at one of the bivouacs or refuges in the area to split the excursion into two days. The area is rich in history, having been a front during the Great War, as evidenced by the Bivacco della Pace and the wartime remains.

Features

Suspension bridgesLaddersLong itineraryHistorical interest

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