Ferrata Amalia al Jof Montasio

Overview

The Via Amalia Zuani-Bornettini is a challenging alpine itinerary culminating on the summit of Jof di Montasio. Beyond the via ferrata itself, the route incorporates sections of free climbing, prolonged exposure, and traverses over unstable terrain, making it a long and composite ascent. It is suitable for experienced hikers with excellent fitness and familiarity with the alpine environment, and is ideally split over multiple days. The setting is severe and majestic, dominated by limestone walls and sharp ridges. Important update as of August 2020: a grassy traverse beyond the Cresta dei Draghi has collapsed, making access to the Bivacco Suringar impassable and forcing a retreat via the ascent route. The Società Alpina delle Giulie has declared it unusable.

Approach

The route begins at the Sella di Sampdonia in Val Dogna (UD). After reaching Dogna along the main road, take the road that climbs the valley for about 18 km to a large parking area (1427 m). From here, a gravel track marked 611 leads in 10 minutes to the Rifugio Fratelli Grego (1389 m). Continue on trail 611 heading south, skirting a rocky spur and ignoring the turnoff for trail 639. The itinerary, initially on a false flat, transforms into a steady climb toward the imposing north walls of Jof di Montasio, reaching the Bivacco Stuparich (1587 m) in about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Leaving the bivouac, the track weaves through dwarf pines following rock cairns, with the valley of the residual Montasio glacier to the left. The trail becomes progressively steeper, aiming toward the southwestern bastion, until the characteristic diagonal crack marking the start of the via ferrata becomes visible. After rounding a rocky shoulder, you reach the start plaque and the first steel cables, about 2 hours and 30 minutes from the parking area.

Via Ferrata

From the start, you tackle a few equipped slabs, which serve as an excellent warm-up. The first section, on vertical rock, then bends left, overcoming several ledges. After a short unroped stretch on trail and easy free climbing, the cables resume on steeper terrain but on solid, pleasant rock. A traverse to the right introduces a first vertical wall. You then enter a chimney, climbed on the right side with the help of stirrups, before crossing a second crack to the opposite side. A more technical passage arrives: a well-holded vertical wall, with some stirrups and pitons for support, to be tackled partly in a straddle position. Continuing, you ascend with increasing exposure a vertical gully rich in holds that leads to a notch. A final vertical pull concludes the equipment of the Ferrata Amalia in about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the start (4 hours total). Once the via ferrata ends, you find yourself at the base of a gully. Following the cairns, you ascend on trail and rock steps, crossing a snowfield and an exposed traverse on unstable grass, requiring maximum caution (telescopic poles are useful). A final climb leads to the narrow and exposed Cresta dei Draghi, about a hundred meters long. After crossing it, you traverse across an exposed and unstable slope, another key passage of the hike. With some free climbing moves (max grade II), you ascend the opposite side of the basin to join the wide and comfortable Grande Cengia. Following it, you reach a shoulder and, finally, the Bivacco Suringar (2430 m) in about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the end of the via ferrata (5h 30' total). From the bivouac, for the summit take the Findenegg route, which is unroped. You ascend a gully on unstable scree to the key passage: a chimney to be climbed free. After the first ledges to the left of the crack, you enter the chimney, exiting on the left side, bypassing a boulder obstacle. The holds are good; for the less experienced, a rope in short sections is advisable. After the chimney, continue on steep ascent until reaching the ridge at about 2700 m (1 hour from the bivouac, 6h 30' total). Keeping right toward the east, you follow an exposed and adrenaline-pumping ridge, with some rock steps requiring the use of hands. After a couple of small terraces, you reach the summit cross of Jof di Montasio (2753 m) in about 15 minutes from the ridge (about 7 hours total).

Descent

From the summit, descend the northeastern side of the ridge toward Cima Verde, on an exposed but wide and well-marked trail. Reaching a notch, a first equipped section in descent leads to the distinctive Scala Pipan (2620 m, 30' from the summit). This metal ladder, about 60 meters long with two cables and rungs, is adrenaline-pumping and exposed. Leaving it behind, descend a short equipped stretch to a junction: to the left the Sentiero Attrezzato Leva, to the right for Forca dei Disteis. Keeping right, on a moderate descent you reach the Forca di Disteis (2201 m, 1 hour from the summit, about 8 hours total). From the notch, you have two options: The quicker choice is to descend via the Altopiano del Montasio on the trail toward the Rifugio Brazza (45' from the notch), cutting across the pastures. This option requires a second car at the refuge or an overnight stay to tackle the Sentiero Attrezzato Ceria Merlone the next day to return to the north side (about 9 hours total). The longer and more challenging choice is to climb to the right of the notch to follow the Grande Cengia, an equipped trail with exposed sections that skirts the west wall, returning to the Bivacco Suringar (45' from the notch). From here, return via the ascent route, paying maximum attention to the downclimbing sections (grade II), the exposed traverses, the scree, and the Cresta dei Draghi. Then descend the via ferrata and the approach trail to the parking area (about 6 hours and 15 minutes from the summit, about 11 hours total). This second option is reserved for very experienced and fit hikers, possibly with an overnight stay.

Useful Notes

The itinerary of the Via Amalia represents a complete adventure in a wild and little-traveled environment. The via ferrata itself is of medium difficulty, but the subsequent high-altitude passages require solid alpine experience. The full descent via the north side is particularly long and strenuous. An escape route is represented by the Grande Cengia toward the Altopiano del Montasio, which in about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the Bivacco Suringar leads to the Rifugio Brazza, although this creates problems for returning to the starting point. The route is dedicated to the Trieste alpinist Amalia Zuani-Bornettini and was inaugurated in August 1957. The Montasio group offers the possibility of combining this route with other equipped itineraries in the Julian Alps area.