Ferrata Grasselli al Picco Carnizza

Overview

This high-altitude route in the Julian Alps connects Picco di Carnizza and Monte Canin via the Ferrata Grasselli, with a descent along the Ferrata Julia and the Canin Glacier. The excursion has a distinctly alpine character, especially along the connecting ridge between the two peaks and during the return from the glacier. The environment is severe and lacks quick escape routes, meaning it should be tackled only in stable, good weather conditions. The route unfolds over predominantly limestone terrain shaped by ice, alternating between sharp ridges, slabs, and ledges, offering a continuous, technical, and panoramic experience.

Approach

The starting point is the upper station of the cable car that runs from Sella Nevea up to Rifugio Gilberti Soravito (1850 m). To reach Sella Nevea, take the Carnia-Tolmezzo exit from the A23 motorway, continue toward Chiusaforte, and then follow the signs for about another 20 km to the locality. The lifts are well signposted.

From the rifugio, take the trail 632 to the right toward Sella Bila Pec. The path continues at mid-slope, a horizontal traverse across a scree zone, with the Montasio massif dominating the view behind you. The route runs over a debris-covered slope, offering a physical but non-technical approach. Upon reaching Sella Grubia, you'll spot the Bivacco Marussich (2040 m) on the left at the foot of the western slopes of Picco di Carnizza. This landmark provides the first complete view of the ridge's development. The approach takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the cable car's upper station.

Via Ferrata

From the bivouac, ascend through grass and rock following a faint trail toward a prominent edge, where a small metal plaque marks the start of the Ferrata Grasselli (reachable in 20 minutes from the bivouac). Watch for possible residual snow on the north face of Picco di Carnizza early in the season, which can make the access terrain slippery.

A few meters to the right of the plaque, following the red triangles, you tackle a first vertical wall. The passage is well-holded but quite demanding, with a few rungs aiding the trickier sections. The climb is vertical and quickly gains exposure, then presents a wall along a crack, which you ascend staying to the right with the help of metal stirrups. This initial section sets the tone for the ferrata: physical, exposed, and continuous, on compact rock.

After this section, a short exposed traverse on a faint trail to the left leads to a section of equipped ridge. You then climb some exposed ridge rocks without major difficulty, along with a few gullies, exiting the first ferrata section. A steep trail through rubble eventually brings you to the broad summit ridge, which leads quickly to the summit of Picco di Carnizza (2441 m). Time from the start of the ferrata is about 1 hour (total from the start of the excursion: about 3 hours).

Now begins the second part toward Canin. After an initial loss of elevation, you follow a ridge section that alternates between trail and sloping slab passages, to be tackled with caution on wet terrain. The precipice on the north side dropping toward the Canin Glacier is impressive. Following the red blazes, you tackle a series of equipped passages to bypass a grassy ledge and climb some rock steps along a gully, thus approaching the western rocky edge of Canin. The signage, consisting of the red triangles of the Alta Via Resiniana, is excellent.

You proceed with a few equipped slab sections before moving onto the ridge. Along the west edge of Canin, with Picco di Carnizza always clearly visible behind you, you alternate between trail sections, slab passages, and rock scrambling. The rhythm is one of continuous ups and downs, with constant exposure to the north. The climb culminates at the remains of a wooden cross on the summit of Monte Canin (2587 m). The view over the route traversed from Picco di Carnizza is extraordinary. Time from the start of the ferrata is about 2 hours and 30 minutes (total from the start of the excursion: about 4 hours and 30 minutes).

Descent

From the summit of Canin, descend via the normal route on the east side. In about 10-15 minutes, you reach the junction on the left for the Ferrata Julia. Descending this moderately difficult ferrata requires attention; the rock is generally well-holded, except for the last small slab before the end, which demands more from your arms for a few meters. During the descent, you enjoy a fine view of Picco di Carnizza. You finish the ferrata by reaching the Canin Glacier in about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the summit (total from the start: about 6 hours).

The descent of the glacier requires great care; crampons are strongly recommended, even though large crevasses are generally not present. Once you've identified the track, continue south toward Sella Bila Pec and finally return to the cable car's upper station. This last section takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes from the end of the Ferrata Julia, for a total excursion time of about 7 hours and 30 minutes.

Useful Notes

This route combining the Ferrata Grasselli and the Ferrata Julia is extremely rewarding and representative of the beauty of the Julian Alps. However, it remains a demanding, exposed, and technically difficult route in several sections. Both ferratas require good experience, solid technique, and a head for heights. The ridge between Picco di Carnizza and Monte Canin delivers hours of excitement with very beautiful and exposed passages, demanding maximum concentration throughout. The Ferrata Grasselli was installed in 1995 by the CAI of Tricesimo and named after member Rosalba Grasselli.