Ferrata Merlone ai Cadini di Misurina

Overview

The Ferrata Merlone ai Ciadin is a vertical, airy route that leads to the highest summit in the Ciadin subgroup of the Sexten Dolomites. The route is defined by a long initial sequence of ladders, followed by a section of strong exposure and several challenging passages. This is a trip of considerable commitment, with a significant elevation gain compounded by the ups and downs and ridge climbs required for the return.

Approach

The starting point lies along the road that climbs from Lago di Misurina toward Rifugio Auronzo. Just before the tollbooth, on the right, a large, gently sloping clearing serves as a parking area, recognizable after a double curve by a white-and-red CAI trail marker. In high season, spaces are limited.

From the parking area, head east on the dirt road through the forest, following trail marker 115. The path, with a moderate gradient, crosses a dense fir forest until reaching Pian degli Spiriti at 1895 meters. The environment is classically Dolomitic, with the forest gradually thinning to reveal more open panoramas. Continuing, the trail climbs, offering splendid views of the spires of the Cadini, until reaching Rifugio Fonda Savio at Passo di Toce (2367 m), reached in about an hour and thirty minutes. This first section offers a physical but non-technical approach, gradually preparing the hiker for the high-altitude environment.

From the refuge, signs lead south on a steep climb that reaches a wide, debris-filled valley. Crossing it and climbing slightly up the opposite slope, you'll spot two long metal ladders that announce the start of the via ferrata. This final section takes about thirty minutes, for a total of two hours from the parking area. The valley, often carved by gullies, foreshadows the vertical character of the route ahead.

Via Ferrata

To clip into the first steel cable, you must overcome some unstable rock steps, then move left. The initial cable runs horizontally for a few meters before a first jump of a couple of meters, where the dedicated metal plaque is placed. The first part of the ferrata develops on equipped rock steps that climb toward the imposing bastion. At one point, the equipment ends, and you tackle two easy first-grade climbing moves, following blue markers on well-holded rock. Shifting to the right, you reach the series of long metal ladders, already visible from below.

The first ladder starts from a panoramic terrace with a breathtaking view of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. The ladders, though dated, are in good condition and generally offer stability. You then begin the long climb of over three hundred steps, a technically undemanding section that progressively gains exposure, becoming very airy. Here, the route takes on an almost mechanical, continuous rhythm, with physical effort prevailing over technical difficulty. The morphology is that of a compact wall, where the ladders allow you to ascend directly along lines of weakness and dihedrals that would otherwise be inaccessible.

This first long sequence ends with a diagonal traverse to the right, followed by a short dihedral and a slabby wall. You then encounter a new series of extremely exposed ladders, interspersed with short connecting sections. Characteristic is the zig-zag pattern, with the ladders bending sharply to the right or left. This development on ledges and traverses breaks the monotony of the vertical climb, requiring more attention to cable management and movement.

Past these, an exposed traverse to the left leads to a wooden walkway. Beyond it, the traverse becomes steeper, constituting the crux of the route. You climb a very exposed traverse that leads to another short vertical ladder. This ends under a boulder, which is bypassed on the left, before resuming the vertical climb. A new ascending traverse to the right, near a more vertical step, bends left. Here, one of the route's few stirrups helps overcome a slight bulge in the rock.

You are now in the final section: you climb a vertical and exposed wall but with good holds, which emerges onto a trail. Ascending the last seventy meters of elevation gain, you reach the summit of Cadin di Nord Est (2788 m), marked by a simple red sign. This final stretch returns to a more alpine character, with solid rock and generous holds that conclude the ascent in a satisfying manner.

Descent

From the summit, descend via the same Ferrata Merlone, retracing the long series of ladders until you re-enter the debris valley of the approach in about an hour and thirty minutes (five hours total). Descending the via ferrata is a demanding operation, requiring control and patience due to the constant exposure and the need to manage uphill traffic. From here, you have three options for returning to the parking area.

The first option is to continue south (left when looking downhill) into the valley, staying on the right side and following the trail that climbs toward Forcella de la Neve. The route features some short equipped sections with vertical steps and rock steps. Reaching the notch at 2471 meters (one hour and thirty minutes from the end of the ferrata, six hours and thirty minutes total), you descend into the Ciadin de la Neve, a debris-filled valley with a constant gradient. You intersect the trail coming from Forcella di Misurina and, always following trail 118, descend the entire valley to the right turn for trail 115, which leads back to the parking area in one hour and thirty minutes (eight hours total). This loop is the most complete, adding a further equipped section and a long panoramic traverse in a glacial, sculpted environment.

The second option is to keep right in the valley and descend back to Rifugio Fonda Savio. From here, take trail 117 southwest, which climbs toward Forcella del Diavolo. You ascend a debris valley, initially at a moderate gradient then increasingly steeper, to the notch (one hour and thirty minutes from the ferrata, six hours and thirty minutes total), overcoming some easy equipped sections with rock steps and ladders. Descending on the opposite side into the Ciadin de la Neve, follow the directions of the first option for the return (seven hours and thirty minutes total). This variant avoids descending the ferrata but requires an additional climb, remaining physically demanding.

The third option is to return via the ascent route, taking about two hours from the end of the ferrata (seven hours total). It is the most direct and fastest choice, ideal in case of fatigue or approaching bad weather.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Merlone al Cadin is a route that divides enthusiasts. The abundant use of ladders may disappoint those seeking pure climbing, but it's necessary to consider that ascending this line, on often vertical and generally greasy rock, would be of very high difficulty without these aids. The ladders, though at times excessive, reduce the technical difficulties, which are concentrated only in a few points. Particularly adrenaline-pumping is the exposed traverse midway through the route.

The route is traveled in both directions, so the risk of falling rocks is real: wearing a helmet is mandatory. Descending the ferrata is also challenging due to the constant exposure and some passages in the second half. Watch out for the free-climbing sections (first grade) both before the summit and just after the initial plaque. The presence of grit can make some passages treacherous: calm and caution are essential. The route alternates sections of technical climbing with long physical stretches, requiring adequate preparation for both aspects.

The access valley to the ferrata can be snow-covered even late in the season. The gradient is modest, so crampons may not be necessary; for updated conditions, it's useful to contact Rifugio Fonda Savio. For cartography, a map of the Sexten Dolomites is recommended.

With a very early start, the Ferrata Merlone can be combined with the longer but less vertical Sentiero Attrezzato Bonacossa, creating a highly rewarding loop. After completing the Bonacossa at Rifugio Auronzo, you can continue toward the Tre Cime di Lavaredo to tackle other famous ferratas such as the Ferrata delle Scalette, the Ferrata Cappellano Hosp, or the Ferrata Innerkofler. On the opposite side of the Val Poppena, Monte Cristallo offers other interesting equipped routes.