Ferrata Buzzati al Cimerlo

Overview

The Ferrata Dino Buzzati is a historic and demanding ascent of Cimerlo, a classic route in the Pale di San Martino group. The itinerary unfolds in two distinct sections, each with its own character and difficulty: a gentler first part prepares you for the subsequent key passage, which is notably exposed and physically strenuous. The setting is extraordinarily beautiful, among dolomitic spires and spectacular panoramas. The return, which follows a long equipped trail, contributes significantly to the overall duration of the excursion, making it a full-day commitment.

Approach

The starting point is the parking area at Prati Fosne in Val Canali, at an elevation of 1319 meters. To reach it, from Fiera di Primiero follow SS 347 toward Agordo; after about 5 kilometers, a well-marked wide curve indicates the turnoff for Val Canali. Drive up the entire valley until a broad left-hand switchback, after which the road becomes narrower and partially unpaved, leading to the Hotel Casera. At the junction, keep right uphill to the parking area. From the parking area, with your gaze turned north toward the silhouette of Cimerlo, begin climbing along trail 747. The route, with numerous switchbacks, gains elevation steadily through the forest. Once out of the dense vegetation, the landscape opens up, and the path tackles two successive steep, rocky gullies characterized by unstable scree. The access to the via ferrata is at 2120 meters, and the approach time from the parking area is about 2 hours. This approach, while not technically difficult, requires a good pace due to the constant ascent.

Via Ferrata

The Ferrata Buzzati begins with an ascending diagonal across a slanted wall, rich in natural holds and well-equipped. After overcoming a first vertical step served by numerous metal stirrups, the cable bends right into a small gully, the upper part of which is overcome thanks to new stirrups. Continue by climbing a short chimney on the left, then enter a succession of ledges, at times airy, alternating with sections of equipped trail on small rocks within another gully. This first part, which develops on a broad and articulated slope, has a varied rhythm and a predominantly horizontal character, offering continuous progression that is not excessively tiring. It introduces the next section, which is decidedly more demanding. The historic itinerary involved climbing through a narrow, tight chimney in the rock, overcome with ladders and strength moves. The modern variant bypasses this internal passage by staying on the outside, as described in this report. After a ramp and a gully equipped with some stirrups to overcome rocky steps, you skirt a blade of rock, avoiding the entrance to the crack-chimney. You thus find yourself below the key passage of the route: a long, exposed, and airy dihedral with an overhanging section in the middle. The climb begins leaning on the left side of the dihedral, then becomes vertical. About halfway up, with great caution and in strong exposure, you shift to the right side, ascending a long series of stirrups above a crack. After about ten meters, you return to the left side, tackling a blade of rock equipped with rock pegs in a very exposed position. This dihedral represents the technical heart of the itinerary: it is a vertical, continuous, and physically demanding passage that requires concentration for managing the exposure and the side changes. Once out of this passage, the equipment ends on the summit meadows after about 1 hour and 15 minutes from the start. From here, following a zigzag track, you reach the eastern shoulder of Cimerlo at 2480 meters in about 20 minutes (for a total of about 1 hour and 40 minutes from the ferrata and 3 hours and 40 minutes total from the parking area). For the true summit of Cimerlo, located to the left, an additional 15 minutes of walking on open, panoramic terrain is required.

Descent

From the eastern shoulder of Cimerlo begins a section of steep equipped descent. Immediately descend some steep rock steps that lead into a gully. From the upper part, you move from the right side to the left side of the gully, using a wedged boulder for the passage. Continue the descent along the rather loose but always equipped floor of the gully, overcoming a couple of equipped vertical steps and other rock steps. This first section of descent is technical and requires attention due to the moving terrain. Finally, you emerge onto a trail that runs just below the crest line between Cima Stanga and Cimerlo. In about 30 minutes, you reach a junction. This report considers the fastest option: the Sentiero Attrezzato del Cacciatore (trail marker 742 to the right). This equipped trail, with passages of medium difficulty, develops on ledges and small gullies at the eastern base of Sass Maor, offering continuous and pleasantly technical progression. Upon reaching a subsequent junction, keep right, taking trail 719, which with false flats and gentle ups and downs leads back to the Prati Fosne parking area through forests and pastures. The descent time from the junction is about 2 hours for the equipped trail plus 1 hour for the final trail, for a total of about 7 hours and 30 minutes from the start of the excursion. The return is long and, while not presenting great technical difficulties, contributes to the overall fatigue due to its duration.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Dino Buzzati is divided into two macro-sections: the first is to be considered moderate-easy, while the second, with the long airy dihedral, is moderate-difficult and exposed. The equipment, recently renewed, is in excellent condition. The entire itinerary is long and demanding, with a non-trivial approach and return that should not be underestimated. The area, less frequented than others in the Pale di San Martino, offers extraordinary beauty and a sense of isolation. Particular attention is recommended on the section of equipped descent below Cimerlo, which is not without difficulty and requires residual energy after the ferrata. The excursion requires excellent training, not only for the concentrated technical difficulty but for the endurance needed to sustain the continuous pace and the overall length of the route.