Ferrata Tissi al Civetta

Overview

The Ferrata Tissi is a historic classic of considerable commitment, taking on the mighty southwest face of Monte Civetta in the Dolomiti di Zoldo. This route, with its great elevation gain and distinctly alpine character, unfolds in a severe environment often affected by permanent snowfields that heighten its objective difficulty. The final goal is the Rifugio Torrani, from where you can continue to the summit of Civetta and descend via its normal route, completing a highly rewarding loop.

Approach

Access begins at Malga Grava (1627 m), reachable from Chiesa in Val Agordina by following Via Grava to the end of the drivable road. Head northwest onto the wide, well-marked Sentiero 557, which climbs at a steady but not excessive grade to Forcella del Pecol/Grava (1784 m). Continuing on trail 557, also known as the "Tivan" path, you reach Forcella della Grava. Here, bear left, switching to Sentiero 558 toward Rifugio Vazzoler, ignoring signs for the Ferrata degli Alleghesi. The route now makes a broad curve, turning decisively west and aiming for the first visible objective: Forcella delle Sasse (2475 m). The climb to the pass, over a steep, debris-covered and gravelly slope, takes about 2 hours from the parking area. Once past the pass, skirt the east side of Civetta along a track that first loses elevation and then climbs an unstable, debris-filled gully-a classic Dolomitic environment where the terrain is dominated by shifting scree and loose blocks. The start of the Ferrata Tissi (reachable in about 45 minutes from Forcella Sasse, for a total of 2h 45') is marked by a faded inscription on a rock, right at the base of the mountain's imposing southeast walls.

Via Ferrata

The equipped route begins with an easy, diagonal traverse to the left to warm up. After a few meters, you encounter a vertical but well-structured wall rich in natural holds. Once past it, you follow a narrow, unprotected ledge to the left, marked by red paint blazes: even in high summer, snow remnants can persist on this section. Next comes a sloping wall to ascend, keeping the cable to your right; the jagged Dolomitic rock aids progression. After about twenty meters, you reach a sloping ramp that rises to the left-one of the most iconic passages of the entire Ferrata Tissi. The ramp, wide but extremely exposed on its left side, is equipped with a few foot pegs. This section, developed along a suspended ledge, offers a continuous rhythm and constant exposure, defining the first part of the route. After passing a small roof, climb a vertical, exposed section with good footholds. Skirting a spur to the right, you enter a chimney, where progression is aided by pegs on the left side. The route then continues over more slabby rock, temporarily reducing the sense of exposure, until a short, vertical step of about 4 meters is overcome using metal rungs. The following section is often wet from melting snowfields above. You tackle a sloping slab requiring good friction, followed by an equipped ledge to the left, a short vertical stretch, and a leftward traverse made challenging by slippery rock. The final passages alternate between short ledges and vertical steps in a technically and physically demanding sequence, until you reach a last, wide ledge to the left. A final vertical pitch concludes the ferrata at Pian della Tenda (1h 15' from the start, 4 hours total). To complete the ascent, head for Rifugio Torrani. From the plateau, you overlook the Val Sasse below. It is often necessary to climb a snowfield above Pian della Tenda, which can be treacherous in fog. Ascend staying in the center, following the line of maximum slope. Shortly after, you reach the junction for the normal descent route from Civetta (also equipped). Continuing a few more minutes uphill, you finally arrive at Rifugio Torrani at 2984 meters (1h 30' from the start, about 4h 15' total).

Descent

From Rifugio Torrani, you can climb to the summit of Civetta (3220 m) in about 45 minutes along a straightforward path on the east slope. The descent then follows the normal route of Civetta. From the hut, return to the junction encountered on the ascent. This descent path alternates rapidly between exposed, unprotected sections and equipped sections that are not trivial to downclimb, demanding maximum attention. The rhythm is discontinuous, with technical passages interrupting long stretches of scree. Once the fixed cables end, you find yourself on a broad scree slope with a junction on trail 557. Ignoring the left fork toward Rifugio Coldai and the Ferrata Alleghesi, continue straight down the scree following signs for Pecol/Grava. From here, retrace the approach trail back down to Casera di Grava (2h 30' from Rifugio Torrani; 6h 45' total without the summit; about 8 hours with the climb of Civetta).

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Tissi, running along the southeast side of Civetta, remains in shadow for most of the day, a factor that contributes to the persistence of ice. Three sections are frequently snow-covered even late in the season: the area just before the start, a short passage shortly after the beginning of the ferrata, and the final zone near Rifugio Torrani. The environment is severe, and the rock, often damp or icy, requires caution. It can be very useful, if not necessary, to carry crampons to safely manage any icy snow patches, especially on the section just after the start.