Ferrata Fiamme Gialle alla Croda Granda

Overview

This route leads to the Bivacco Reali, nestled beneath the imposing wall of Croda Grande in the Dolomites of the Pale di San Martino, via the technical and athletic Ferrata Fiamme Gialle. It is a complex and very extensive itinerary, where both the approach and the return demand significant physical preparation and constant focus. The via ferrata, while not particularly long, requires good climbing technique and adequate endurance. For the descent, there is the alternative option of the alpinistic trail of the Vani Alti. This hike should only be undertaken in a state of excellent fitness and with stable weather forecasts.

The itinerary unfolds over predominantly dolomitic terrain, characterized by vast scree slopes, gullies, and vertical walls. The ferrata winds along an exposed flank, alternating vertical sections on solid rock with airy traverses on ledges, offering a dynamic and panoramic experience. The pace is sustained, with a long uphill approach and a return that, depending on the choice, can be technically demanding or physically prolonged.

Approach

The starting point is in the Val Canali, a broad inner valley of the Pale di San Martino group. From Fiera di Primiero, follow the state road toward Agordo for about 5 km to a hairpin turn marked for Val Canali. Turn in and drive the entire paved road, ignoring a left turn and continuing straight to a junction near a small church. Keeping right, you reach the area of Malga Canali (1302 m), where parking is available.

From here, the actual approach begins. Take the wide dirt road that enters the woods, initially on a false flat. Ignoring the branches for the Troi del Todesch and the Bivacco Minazio, continue on trail 707. This crosses the Canali stream and, with a long and steep series of switchbacks, leads in about an hour to the Rifugio Treviso (1631 m).

Leaving the refuge, trail 707 continues north toward Forcella dell'Orsa and Forcella Miel. The route stays mid-slope, alternating steep sections with easier ones, skirting the western wall of Pala del Rifugio. You cross a first gully north of this peak, where a snowfield may persist, then ascend an easy small gully. This brings you to the Vallone dei Vani Alti, with its corresponding notch clearly visible high to the left. Continuing on trail 707 northward, you may encounter another snowfield before reaching the Vallone del Coro. Here, a marked junction indicates keeping right for the Bivacco Reali and the Ferrata Fiamme Gialle (about 1h 15' from Rifugio Treviso; 2h 15' total from the parking lot).

Up to this point, the trail is of a hiking nature. From here onward, it becomes more demanding, climbing decisively up the Vallon del Coro on a steep scree slope traversed by switchbacks. In case of a snowfield, pay attention to the track on the left side (marked by a sign on a rock) to follow in order to reach the start. You overcome a few short rocky pulls guided by red paint marks and cairns, until a flat section where the start of the via ferrata is identified (about 1h 15' from the junction; 3h 30' total from the parking lot).

The approach has a progressive rhythm: after a wooded section and a steady climb to the refuge, the route becomes more airy and steep in the Vallone del Coro, on loose debris. The environment shifts from forest to alpine scree, preparing you for the rocky and vertical setting of the ferrata.

Via Ferrata

The start is marked by a small red plaque. The route begins with a short exposed traverse of about 5 meters to the left, beyond which the cable rises upward. The ferrata ascends the right side of a gully, alternating vertical sections that are good for climbing with traverses. This initial section is very pleasant and does not present excessive technical difficulty.

You then encounter a first vertical wall of about 15 meters, where some stirrups in the lower part aid the climb given the scarcity of good holds. Continuing on a diagonal section and rounding an edge, you face another similar vertical wall equipped with stirrups. You quickly gain altitude by ascending some sloping ramps on the right side of the gully, up to its top. Here, a challenging wall on a dihedral awaits, from which you exit to the left.

You then move with a traverse to the right, toward a narrower gully, which you ascend on its left side. After overcoming this, you must cross the bottom of the gully without fixed protection, paying attention to its instability. Continue by ascending some vertical equipped steps, in some cases with metal stirrups.

You enter the final section. You ascend a gully that initially takes the form of a chimney and then widens in the upper part, staying on the left side. Reaching another red plaque, you are near the end of the ferrata at the Forcella del Mormor (2600 m). Continuing to the right of the notch, follow the paint marks on a track climbing among the rocks until you glimpse the plateau on the opposite side, where to the left the Bivacco Reali (2650 m) is already visible. The time to complete the ferrata is about 1 hour and 15 minutes, for a total of about 4 hours and 45 minutes from the parking lot.

The via ferrata unfolds on compact dolomitic rock, shaping a vertical and continuous route. The pace is sustained, with few natural rests, and the exposure is constant. The character is predominantly technical and athletic, with consecutive passages requiring arm strength and good management of exposure. The progression is rewarding, with views that gradually open up over the Pale complex.

Descent

From the Bivacco Reali, for those with energy and time, it is possible to continue upward toward the nearby summit of Croda Grande (about 1h 30' round trip at a good pace). Given the overall length of the hike, for this variant an overnight stay at the bivouac is strongly recommended.

The return begins on the broad plateau of the Foch. Proceed on a false flat following the track to Forcella Sprit (2573 m). From here, staying at altitude and crossing a basin, climb up to a signpost (2528 m, about 45' from the bivouac) where a crucial junction is encountered: to the right, you descend via the unprotected alpinistic trail of the Vani Alti; continuing straight, you descend via the Sentiero della Scaletta. The first option is shorter but demanding and airy, the second is longer but less exposed and difficult.

Alpinistic Trail of the Vani Alti: This route is to be considered of an alpinistic nature. Along the unprotected track, you encounter some pitons where, independently, you can clip in with a rope to increase safety on the exposed descent. The presence of fixed ropes is not guaranteed. The upper part descends diagonally to the right on good holds. The next section is perhaps the trickiest: you traverse an exposed and steep ramp/ledge to the left in descent, then descend into a narrow gully. The exposure is high and the ground can be slippery, requiring maximum attention. The trail then continues with a steep but wider descent to the right. The last difficult passage, near a metal plaque, involves descending a couple of meters along an airy edge. Finally, you descend a steep and unstable gully until it widens, ending the difficulties. You then descend the Vallone dei Vani Alti to the junction on trail 707 encountered on the approach. From here, return to the Rifugio Treviso via the outward route. The complete return from Forcella dei Vani Alti to the refuge takes about 2 hours, for a total of about 8 hours from the start of the hike.

Sentiero della Scaletta: This option, while less difficult, remains a long and demanding return with some sections of free downclimbing (Grade I). From Forcella Sprit, skirt the ridge of the Cime Vani Alti on the eastern side, descending into the Conca dei Vani Alti. Then face a steep descent to the southwest to the Sasso d'Ortiga, where you encounter the characteristic passage of the little ladder (about 15 meters of Grade I downclimbing). Continue over some rock steps to Forcella Sant'Anna (2445 m). The trail descends steeply but not excessively difficult until it joins trail 720. Keeping right, face a grueling climb up a landslide gully, overcoming some small gullies with rock steps, to Forcella delle Mughe (2244 m, about 2h 30' from the end of the ferrata). Following signs for Rifugio Treviso, descend a steep, stony trail in a gully, paying attention, to a scree slope that, through the woods, leads back to the refuge (about 1h 15' from Forcella delle Mughe; 3h 45' from the end of the ferrata; about 9h total).

From the Rifugio Treviso, return to the parking lot at Malga Canali via the same trail as the approach (about 45 minutes). The total time for the hike is about 9 hours with the Vani Alti descent and about 10 hours with the Sentiero della Scaletta descent.

The two descent options offer distinct experiences: the Vani Alti trail is an alpinistic route, airy and technical on ledges and small gullies, requiring steady nerves and self-reliance. The Sentiero della Scaletta is more physical and draining, with ups and downs on unstable terrain and a longer descent. Both take place in grand but severe environments, where accumulated fatigue can become a critical factor.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Fiamme Gialle is part of a highly demanding overall itinerary. The equipped route is currently in excellent condition and, thanks to recent upgrades with the addition of stirrups in some points, is technically less difficult than in the past. However, the approach is long and tiring, especially in the Vallone del Coro. Both return options are absolutely not to be underestimated, featuring free climbing passages; the Vani Alti one is, in all respects, an alpinistic itinerary. The view from above amply repays the effort, especially if you reach the summit of Croda Grande. In the latter case, it is strongly advisable to organize an overnight stay at the Bivacco Reali or start very early from Rifugio Treviso.

The itinerary as a whole is of an alpine character, requiring a realistic assessment of one's own abilities and the conditions of the terrain, often unstable on the scree slopes. The beauty of the route is undeniable, but its difficulty lies in the combination of length, elevation gain, and technical commitment concentrated in a remote environment.