Ferrata dei Campanili del Latemar

Overview

The Ferrata Campanili del Latemar is a technically moderate high-altitude route set in a remote and magnificent environment. Its modest technical difficulty is offset by the length of the route and its alpine character, making the ascent physically demanding and richly rewarding in terms of scenery.

Approach

The route begins at the top station of the Oberholz cable car, above Obereggen. Follow trail 18, heading toward Forcella dei Camosci. The approach initially winds along comfortable switchbacks, then delves into an increasingly mineral landscape, concluding with a short vertical section secured by fixed ropes. This brings you to Forcella dei Camosci (2590 m) in about 1 hour and 45 minutes. Ignoring the branch to Rifugio Torre di Pisa, continue left toward Forcella dei Campanili, with the wild Val Sorda on your right and the majestic Latemar chain ahead. After crossing a debris-strewn plateau, you reach Forcella dei Campanili in another 45 minutes (total 2h 30'). This is the recommended point to put on your via ferrata gear. Staying on trail 511 to the left, overcome a few easy rocky steps (slippery when wet) until you intercept the first steel cable of the equipped route, about 15 minutes from the forcella (total 2h 45').

Via Ferrata

The progression begins with a diagonal traverse to the right, passing beneath a distinctive pinnacle and leading to a long equipped ledge. Here the cable mainly serves as a handrail, as the passage is wide but exposed. This is followed by an airy but easy trail section that introduces one of the iconic passages: a dark-colored earthy notch, safely negotiable thanks to a cable positioned high above. Beyond this saddle at 2730 m (20 minutes from the start), ascend the opposite slope to enter a panoramic and exposed ledge, entirely protected by cable.

The route continues alternating short equipped sections with trail passages, until reaching another notch. On the left, a distinctive feature comes into view: a large boulder perfectly wedged between two walls. Proceed along a high-altitude trail that winds among ledges, some of which are unsecured, until you intercept an unmarked detour for Torre Diamantidi (2842 m). The summit, marked by a small Madonna statue and reachable in about 30 minutes round trip following cairns, offers exceptional views of the Catinaccio group. From here, return to the main route.

Heading toward Cima Latemar, descend a few meters on an equipped section to a gully. Then tackle the ascent of the opposite slope, which represents a slightly more challenging passage due to the physical effort required, before traversing another exposed ledge. This brings you to the route's key passage: a diagonal descent of a few meters into a gully. The passage, though brief, uses excellent holds but is slightly overhanging, demanding some arm strength; it's advisable to execute it decisively. Ascend the opposite slope with a diagonal traverse of moderate difficulty, aided by good footholds.

In the final phase, you find yourself above a rocky rib, beneath which the characteristic orange Bivacco Rigatti is visible. After a few meters of fairly vertical descent and a ridge section, you emerge onto an easier trail that leads to the end-of-ferrata sign, near the bivouac and Forcella Grande (2650 m). The via ferrata takes about 2 hours and 15 minutes from the start including the detour to Torre Diamantidi (total 5 hours), or 1 hour and 45 minutes without the detour (total 4h 30'). From Forcella Grande, experienced and motivated hikers can deviate for the ascent to Cima Latemar/Schenon (2791 m), which requires about 2 hours round trip along a trail with Class I passages and occasionally unstable rocks. This variant is not included in the total times indicated.

Descent

From Forcella Grande, descend along trail 18, which makes a long traverse at mid-slope at a lower altitude than the ascent route, overlooking Val Sorda. This trail leads back to Forcella dei Campanili. From here, retrace your steps to Forcella dei Camosci and finally to the cable car top station. The descent from Forcella Grande takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes, for a total of 7 hours of hiking (without the detours to Torre Diamantidi and Cima Latemar) or 9 hours and 30 minutes including both summits.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Campanili del Latemar is an extensive and visually stunning hike that, for long stretches, feels more like an equipped trail than a truly vertical via ferrata. However, the high-mountain setting and the lack of easy escape routes demand careful planning, with maximum attention to weather forecasts. In summer, it's essential to bring plenty of water. The itinerary can be split over two days, possibly staying overnight at Rifugio Torre di Pisa or one of the bivouacs, or by approaching from the Val di Fiemme side (the village of Forno). Given its considerable length, it's not realistic to combine other ferratas on the same day, but Val di Fiemme and Val di Fassa offer numerous alternatives for subsequent days.