Ferrata del Lago al Pizzo d'Andolla

Overview

The Ferrata del Lago is a demanding high-altitude route that traverses the Italian side of Pizzo d'Andolla, climbing along the Sonningplass watershed on the border with Switzerland. The considerable length of the route makes it best suited for a two-day outing, with an overnight stay at the Rifugio Andolla or the Bivacco Varese. The overall development-combining a long hiking approach with a section of equipped rock climbing-gives the itinerary a severe, alpine character.

Approach

Access is from Alpe Cheggio in the Val d'Ossola (VB). After reaching the Valle Antrona from Domodossola, park in a large open area near the diga dei cavalli (dam), visible on the left side of the road.

From here, take the trail that follows the left shore of the lake, heading toward the Rifugio Andolla. The path, marked by constant ups and downs, crosses a small bridge and then climbs steeply to the Alpeggio Scanach. Ignore the right-hand fork and continue through the pastures to a signed junction for the refuge, reachable in about 2 hours from the start. The setting is typical of the high valley, with a route that alternates between wooded sections and open spaces.

From behind the refuge, a steep grassy trail leads toward the Bivacco Varese. Leave the first right-hand turn for Pizzo Andolla, keeping straight for the bivouac along a traverse on the left slope, then turn right following the markings on a boulder. The bivouac is reached in 2 hours from the refuge (4 hours total). The pace is sustained, and the terrain becomes progressively rockier and more severe.

From the bivouac, a short equipped trail descends; at a junction, follow the white-red markers uphill across unstable scree. This leads to a snowfield, often present even in summer, which you skirt on the left side to finally reach the base of the ferrata's starting wall (30 minutes from the bivouac, 4 hours and 30 minutes total). This last section requires careful attention to the terrain, which is often loose and sloping.

Via Ferrata

The start of the Ferrata del Lago, often affected by persistent snow remnants, is marked by a white plaque with red and blue lettering. The route develops diagonally across inclined slabs of excellent-quality rock, polished by glacial action but rich in holds and natural pockets. The first twenty minutes of progression alternate between smooth slabs, gullies, and a couple of short vertical wall sections, offering a technical and continuous line on solid, compact rock.

You then reach two long metal ladders: the first is more slanted, while the second is decidedly more vertical and exposed, overcoming a more pronounced rock step. This sequence is the most airy and challenging passage of the entire ferrata. Beyond the ladders, you continue with a few final wall sections, never overly difficult but always exposed, until the end of the equipped section, marked by the summit book and a small plaque (1 hour from the start, 5 hours and 30 minutes total). The route is predominantly vertical, following the fracture lines of the wall, offering technical and enjoyable climbing in a magnificent setting.

The summit of the Sonningplass rewards you with an exceptional 360-degree panorama, ranging from Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn to the Swiss 4000-meter peaks. Below, you can see the Bivacco Varese. From the saddle, experienced alpinists can continue toward the Mittelruck (grade I and II, generally on the Swiss side) or Pizzo di Bottarello (grade III, on the left side).

Descent

The return route involves retracing the entire outward itinerary, including rappelling down the via ferrata itself-a maneuver that requires attention and practice. It takes about 4 hours and 30 minutes from the end of the ferrata to return to the parking area, for a total hiking time of approximately 10 hours and 30 minutes. The repetitive descent on the same path, often over unstable and sloping terrain, represents a significant physical and mental challenge, considerably extending the overall commitment.

Useful Notes

This is a severe and little-traveled route, best considered a long alpine hike with a final section of moderately difficult via ferrata. It is recommended exclusively for experienced, well-conditioned hikers capable of sustained physical effort and confident movement on varied, exposed terrain.

Snow conditions vary greatly depending on the season and year; crampons and an ice axe may be necessary even in summer for crossing or bypassing the access snowfield. It is essential to pay close attention to weather forecasts, as the area, being high alpine and exposed, is subject to sudden changes and adverse conditions that can make both the ascent and the long descent extremely dangerous.