Ferrata del Gorbeillon

Overview

The Ferrata del Gorbeillon, in Valtournenche, is an athletic and physically demanding route, despite its modest length. The short approach and descent make it ideal for an intense half-day outing. It should not be underestimated for its sections requiring strength and its nearly continuous exposure.

Approach

The starting point is the hamlet of Crepin, in the municipality of Paquier along the road between Chatillon and Cervinia in the Aosta Valley. Once you reach Paquier, follow the hairpin turns through the village until you spot a descending road on the left leading to Crepin. After crossing the Marmore stream over a bridge, you'll immediately notice a brown sign for Cignana and a large parking area.

From here, take trail 6 on the left, heading toward the artificial Lake Cignana. The route climbs with steep switchbacks through the woods, continues along the hillside, and briefly descends to cross a stream over a small wooden bridge. You'll pass a sport climbing area. Just before the cliffs, a boulder marked with trail signs 14 and 15, along with a sign, indicates the access to the via ferrata. Ascend a scree slope following the markers, then take a steep trail that, in about twenty minutes from the parking lot, leads to the start of the Ferrata del Gorbeillon, just before entering the woods at a right-hand curve where the descent trail comes down.

Via Ferrata

The first section serves as an introduction, immediately clarifying the route's character. You climb among larches with an easy traverse to the left over easy ledges, continue through the woods, and tackle a short descent to a junction. Ignoring the left branch (which leads to an early exit), continue to the right, reaching a first overhanging and demanding passage. Following the cable, you arrive at another junction: take the left in a slight descent, ignoring the cable that goes up (used for the descent).

The actual itinerary begins on a very stepped horizontal ledge, which you follow to the left, first ascending then descending, using some stirrups and a distinctive red handle. This section, developed on jagged limestone, offers a continuous rhythm on a predominantly horizontal path, but already exposed toward the valley. You thus reach the first overhang, which you climb diagonally toward a small roof. You bypass it using stirrups and another red handle, then tackle an exposed diagonal traverse to the right, with stirrups for your feet. The rock, very jagged, offers numerous natural holds. The route then becomes vertical for a few meters on climbable and pleasant rock, before reaching on the right a small terrace under a large rock roof, an excellent spot to admire the view of the village below and the valley leading to the Matterhorn.

From the terrace, move to the left in a slight descent, rounding a bulge. You then face a decidedly exposed traverse, which uses a series of metal rungs. After the traverse, a long vertical slab begins, with passages that gradually shift to the left. The climb up this compact and uniform slab is physically continuous, with marked exposure that imposes a steady rhythm. In the upper part, the steepness decreases, becoming more stepped and easier, until you reach a small terrace near two trees. The slab continues with similar characteristics, leading to a very exposed but not difficult traverse to the left.

This traverse is initially narrow, then widens to a clearing. Here you encounter a very athletic and demanding passage: a few meters of pronounced overhang, the first 3-4 of which are the hardest, then gradually becoming vertical and climbable. The upper part is more slabby and, through some connecting sections, you move to the right up to a large rock roof called "L'Antro della Fata" (The Fairy's Cave). You overcome it by climbing diagonally on a challenging traverse to the left. After a few easy connecting passages, you move toward a small grove, then cross to the opposite side of the mountain.

You descend along a ledge with a view of the Tibetan bridge, up to an overhanging wall to be climbed first vertically, then diagonally. You need to pull up on your arms to slide the carabiner, an operation to be done quickly to avoid fatigue. After rounding a corner, you reach the start of the suspended bridge, about 15 meters long and made of 4 ropes, quite swaying. After crossing the bridge, you climb a vertical wall, equipped at the start and then climbable, ending with the final steps toward the end of the via ferrata. The time to complete the via ferrata is about one hour and thirty minutes, for a total of about two hours including the approach.

Descent

After finishing the ferrata, climb a few meters. For the descent, there are two options: The first, longer and easier but less interesting, involves continuing uphill for about thirty meters toward the road connecting Crepin to Liortiere. Once on the asphalt, descend to the valley along the road (about one hour from the end of the ferrata, for a total of three hours). The second option, more direct, requires keeping your harness on. Continue on a faint trail heading north, ignoring the one going uphill. Shortly after, you encounter a first metal cable descending through rocky and grassy sections, where caution is needed. Take a trail and face a horizontal traverse to a junction. Here, keep right toward the south, ignoring the steep track descending into the valley (the test ferrata trail). Tackle a short descending ferrata section of a couple of meters, then join the approach trail which, followed in reverse, leads back to the start and finally to the parking lot (about 45 minutes from the end of the ferrata, for a total of two hours and forty-five minutes).

Useful Notes

A curious and almost unique feature of this via ferrata are some specially made handles, consisting of rings of steel cable covered with a red sheath, which in some points replace traditional stirrups. The Ferrata del Gorbeillon is challenging, exposed, and has overhanging sections that increase its technical and athletic level. The suspended bridge adds an adrenaline component. For local cartography, the maps of the Matterhorn or Monte Rosa from the 4Land series are recommended. Being an athletic itinerary but of limited duration, it can be well combined with other short via ferratas with short approaches in the area, such as the Ferrata di Covarey, the Ferrata di Casimiro, or the Ferrata Josè Angster.