Ferrata del Mangart

Overview

This report describes the ascent of Mangart in the Julian Alps, combining the Ferrata Italiana and the Ferrata Slovena. The route starts from the Italian side, summits the peak, and descends via the normal route. It is a highly demanding itinerary, both in length and elevation gain, offering a complete alpine experience with sweeping views as it crosses the national border.

Approach

The route begins from the parking lot at the Laghi di Fusine in Valromana, accessible from Tarvisio. From the parking area, take the dirt road heading south toward the Bivacco Nogara. Continue straight, ignoring the turnoffs for Rifugio Zacchi (trail 512) and Alpe Vecchia (trail 513). After about 45 minutes of walking, leave the main road and turn right onto trail 517A, marked for the bivouac. The landscape gradually changes: the trail climbs decisively through the forest before opening onto a broad scree slope, from which the imposing wall of the Ferrata Italiana al Mangart looms. This sustained and continuous approach leads to the Bivacco Nogara at 1850 meters in approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes.

Via Ferrata

The itinerary involves climbing both via ferratas consecutively, followed by the descent via the normal route.

Ferrata Italiana From the Bivacco Nogara, the start of the route is just a few meters away. The ascent begins diagonally across slabs and small rock steps, with a few more challenging sections, before entering a rocky cleft. Inside this cavity, a cable guides the climb up a couple of ledges to an opening above.

Exiting the cleft, you find yourself on a vertical wall with good natural holds, where the exposure begins to make itself felt. The route continues with a terraced traverse to the left, followed by the ascent of a first gully with a partially unstable floor. A subsequent, very exposed traverse allows you to round a corner and access a second, better-stepped gully. After exiting this, head left to the base of a chimney, climbed on its left side with the aid of stirrups. After overcoming a short, unstable channel, the first half of the route concludes.

A short connecting trail leads back to the fixed gear, which brings you to a small ledge. From here begins the climb up a vertical, rather smooth wall, made possible by solid metal stirrups. The wall's morphology gradually evolves, narrowing to form a dihedral in the upper section. From a narrow ledge on the left, you tackle the most iconic and exposed passage of the entire route: a vertical climb of a few meters with a couple of stirrups leads under a rocky roof, which is bypassed on the left by walking on stirrups suspended in the void to reach an extremely airy arête. You then overcome a vertical wall well-equipped with pegs to bypass another roof, this time on the right. After a traverse to the right, you face a final vertical wall similar to the previous one, climbing it while gradually veering to the right.

An easy traverse to the left leads to a section on suspended pegs, then enters the final segment. Follow a short ramp to the left and climb a new wall that bends first left and then right. Gaining altitude, descend a few meters to the left along a ledge. At its end, the cables cross, and you climb diagonally along the edge of a crack. After a short descent, ascend an exposed dihedral and make a final exposed traverse to round an arête. The character of the route then becomes easier and more slabby, concluding the Ferrata Italiana in about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the start (4 hours total from the parking lot).

Connection and Ferrata Slovena From the end of the Italian ferrata, descend diagonally to the right, entering Slovenia. At the Forcella Mangart, keep left with a slight descent until you reach the start of the Ferrata Slovena at 2240 meters (15 minutes of connecting trail). The Slovenian route unfolds in two main sections, offering a different rhythm and environment. The first part climbs a gorge, initially on its left side, gaining altitude with continuous but not overly technical passages. Reaching a broad ledge with a trail, you then tackle successive vertical sections, ramps, and traverses, alternating with short unroped stretches on rock steps and ledges. The vertical passages are of moderate difficulty and require attention to the sometimes loose ground. The progression is more physical and continuous, less broken up than the Italian route. You finally reach the summit of Mangart (2677 m) with its large wooden cross, after about 1 hour from the Slovenian ferrata (approximately 5 hours and 30 minutes total).

Descent

From the summit, follow the trail initially toward the east ridge until you reach a junction at 2530 meters. Take the normal descent route to the left, which descends among rock steps and scree, skirting the north face of the mountain. The steepest and most exposed sections are equipped with cables but present no significant technical difficulties. After about 1 hour, you reach a junction in Slovenian territory: continue straight toward the Forcella del Mangart, ignoring the track to the right for the Ferrata Italiana. Cross the national border and, following the signs, take the trail that descends steeply into a valley of mixed earth, stones, and grass, heading for the Bivacco Nogara. The trail, though steep and at times uneven, presents no technical difficulties and allows for a quick descent. Reaching the bivouac, retrace the approach trail back to the parking lot at the Laghi di Fusine, in about 3 hours from the summit.

Useful Notes

The itinerary is long and involves significant elevation gain, requiring excellent physical fitness. The two ferratas have distinct characteristics: the Ferrata Italiana is vertical and exposed, with abundant use of stirrups and pegs, and can be considered of moderate difficulty, particularly challenging in its airy passages. The Ferrata Slovena is generally more slabby, developing for long stretches in a gully and being quite climbable, though it requires attention to polished rock. Depending on the season, the start of the Slovenian ferrata may feature a large snowfield, requiring particular caution and a careful assessment of conditions. Standard complete via ferrata equipment (harness, energy-absorbing lanyard, helmet) and adequate preparation are essential.