Ferrata Goitan al Jof Fuart

Overview

The Sentiero Attrezzato Anita Goitan is a challenging loop itinerary that completes an east-west traverse of Jof Fuart in the Julian Alps. Starting from Sella Nevea, the route ascends to Rifugio Corsi, follows the full via ferrata, and includes an optional climb to the summit of Jof Fuart (2666 m), before descending through Forcella Lavinal dell'Orso. This is a long hike with considerable elevation gain and exposure, best tackled over two days with an overnight stay at the rifugio.

Approach

The starting point is the large parking area at Sella Nevea (about 1200 m), reachable from Chiusaforte. From here, take trail CAI 625, which climbs decisively through beech forest toward Casera di Cregnedul. The trail then skirts the southeast side of Monte La Plagnota on a relatively comfortable mid-slope path, reaching Passo degli Scalini (2022 m). After the pass, cross a wide valley to a crucial junction: ignore trail 626 on the left (which will be used for the return) and continue straight, losing a bit of elevation. Further on, also ignore the right-hand turn for trail 628 to Malga Grantagar. The trail then rounds the rocky spur of Campanile di Villico, where you can see World War I positions, and enters the basin that holds Rifugio Guido Corsi (1874 m), reached in about 2 hours and 30 minutes.

Behind the rifugio, follow trail 625 for fifteen minutes to a marked junction: take the left onto trail 627. After less than five minutes, you reach a second junction: ignore the normal route left toward Forcella Mosè and continue right on trail 627 toward Forcella di Riofreddo. The trail immediately steepens, scrambling over scree and grass, with the first exposed ledges and a short rocky gully. At a junction at 2165 m (40 minutes from the rifugio), leave trail 627 to the right for Rifugio Pellarini and keep left, following signs for Goitan. The climb continues over rock and grass, requiring attention to red trail markers to find the final gully leading to Forcella Riofreddo (2240 m), the start of the via ferrata, where a commemorative plaque from the Great War is located. Total time from the car is about 3 hours and 30 minutes.

Via Ferrata

From the forcella, the actual equipped route begins. Start by climbing a steep, unroped rocky gully, following the broad track and red marks left toward a clear notch, being careful on the loose, unstable scree. The pace is immediately demanding and requires focus. Then traverse a cabled ledge with increasing exposure to the left, which runs along the eastern side, offering the first deep views. Exit the ledge by climbing easy rock steps, then reach and ascend a cabled gully. The progression is continuous and unbroken, alternating ledges, gullies, and slabs until reaching a panoramic forcella overlooking the Valbruna Basin.

From the forcella, resume climbing on equipped sections: first, ascend a small vertical wall, then a ramp to the right. After rounding a spur, the distinctive silhouette of the Madre dei Camosci appears. To reach it, you must descend two cabled gullies on slippery ground, exercising extreme caution. This descending passage on friable terrain is one of the most technically delicate moments of the entire route. Cross the separating channel, then climb decisively toward the Madre dei Camosci via a series of equipped sections: a first sloping stretch, a vertical slab with solid metal stirrups, and other very climbable vertical passages that form the technical heart of the via ferrata.

After these, a panoramic trail section skirts the Madre dei Camosci on a wide ledge, with breathtaking views of the spires (like the Ago dei Camosci), Rifugio Corsi far below, and the entire Julian chain. This long horizontal traverse offers a break from the verticality, though some exposed sections are still protected by cable. After the ledge and a short connecting stretch, you reach the junction with the normal route for Jof Fuart coming up from Forcella di Mosè (2350 m), about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the start.

From here, the climb to the summit of Jof Fuart is optional. Keeping right and following cairns and trail markers, you reach the anticima with a cross and Madonna, and shortly after the main summit at 2666 m, about 45 minutes from the junction. The final climb is on mountain terrain, with some rock passages but no equipment. To continue the itinerary, retrace your steps to the junction and proceed on the via ferrata in a southwest direction. The trail cuts across the mountain and begins to descend with some steep sections, only partially equipped (gully, slab, ledge), until reaching Forcella Mosè (2271 m) with its characteristic gendarme.

From the forcella, ignoring the descent via the normal route, resume climbing with a few short equipped sections, approaching Cima di Castrein, where numerous World War I relics are evident (positions, shelters, trenches). A short but exposed detour allows you to reach the summit, but the main itinerary does not include it. Then begins the descent over steep grassy slopes, requiring caution, until the end of the via ferrata at Forcella Lavinal dell'Orso (2138 m). The time on the via ferrata, including the climb to Jof Fuart, is about 4 hours and 30 minutes.

Descent

From the forcella, the descent back begins. Keep left, descending the valley without technical difficulty. In about 15 minutes, you reach the junction with trail 625 used on the approach. Keeping right, retrace the trail, climb back to Passo degli Scalini, and descend to Sella Nevea and the parking area. The descent takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes, for a total loop time of about 11 hours.

Useful Notes

The Sentiero Attrezzato Anita Goitan is a route of great scenic beauty, offering special views of Jof Fuart, Jof Montasio, and the Canin group. Technically, it is exposed but never extremely difficult, except for a couple of descending passages near the Madre dei Camosci. The length and elevation gain are considerable, so it is highly recommended to consider splitting the hike over two days, possibly overnighting at Rifugio Corsi. Along the route, encounters with chamois and ibex are frequent, and they can dislodge stones: caution is necessary. The via ferrata equipment is in good condition. The route is dedicated to the memory of Trieste mountaineer Anita Goitan and was built by the CAI of Trieste in 1973.