Ferrata della Falconera

Overview

The Ferrata della Falconera is a modern, athletic route that unfolds across a vertical wall above Varallo, in the province of Vercelli. Its demanding and physically taxing nature, with pronounced exposure and overhanging sections, makes it suitable exclusively for experienced hikers in excellent physical condition. The presence of passages that tend to pull you outward makes using a via ferrata lanyard or quickdraws highly recommended for safe progression.

Approach

The itinerary begins in Varallo. Once in town, park in the large area near the "Casa Serena" retirement home. From the parking area, cross the road to take a mule track marked by an information board dedicated to the via ferrata. The climb through the woods takes about ten minutes to a junction, where you continue along a mid-slope trail that leads to a short equipped section, finally reaching the start sign for the Ferrata della Falconera (about 20 minutes from the car). The start is characterized by an initial ledge-like morphology with compact rock. A bench has been placed nearby for putting on your harness, but extreme caution is advised due to the risk of falling rocks. It is therefore recommended to wear your helmet, and ideally all your gear, from the very start.

Via Ferrata

From the start, move a couple of meters horizontally to the right, then ascend a first wall of well-supported rock that gradually bends to the right. The environment is immediately vertical, with solid rock allowing continuous progression. Soon you encounter numerous stirrups that facilitate the vertical climb, quickly gaining altitude and exposure, and offering a first taste of a slight overhang. You then reach a traverse to the right, first horizontal and then diagonal, known as the "Traverso della Chiappa Tremante" (Traverse of the Trembling Leg). This passage, developed on an exposed ledge, requires attention to movement. After this section, you arrive at a wider ledge that skirts the "Grotta del Fico" (Fig Cave) and leads beneath a first, more challenging vertical wall. The climb continues up a slab toward a rocky roof. Beneath this roof, with ropes on both sides, you bypass it to the left in a short section reminiscent of a dihedral. From here, on what is called the "Cengia dei 4000" (Ledge of the 4000ers), you enjoy a magnificent view of the 4000-meter peaks on clear days. This sector offers a moment of more horizontal, panoramic progression.

The exposure now becomes significant. You reach the "Cengia della Campana" (Bell Ledge), marked by a small metal bell, which you traverse to the right to position yourself beneath a vertical wall. The pace of the route becomes more physical and sustained. Here you tackle the two most challenging passages of the entire route. You ascend the wall to a first very bulging roof, which requires agility and a quick carabiner change to avoid excessively tiring your arms. The passage, though short (about two meters), is exposed and strenuous. After overcoming it, you continue vertically following the rungs to encounter almost immediately a second similar roof, which features a marked outward lean. This too is overcome with great exposure and physical effort, before concluding the ascent of this long and tough wall. A panoramic terrace offers a well-deserved rest point to catch your breath and admire the landscape. For the two overhanging sections mentioned, a lanyard can be of great help. This section represents the athletic and technical heart of the route.

The climb continues up a couple of easier walls, then enters a stepped ridge section, alternately rocky and grassy, which leads to the "Via col Vento" (Gone with the Wind) suspension bridge. This bridge, with four ropes and relatively stable, is similar to other structures in Alto Piemonte (like on the Ferrata Detomasi at Cimalegna); the intertwined ropes can make progression a bit cumbersome, requiring you to step over them in some spots. However, it is possible to cross using only two ropes, like a classic Tibetan bridge. Beyond the bridge, an easy but exposed horizontal traverse to the right introduces the final passages. You climb a last vertical wall, tackle some rock steps and a couple of rocky ledges, finally reaching the "Cresta del Traguardo" (Finish Ridge). This, after a few easy but well-protected passages, marks the end of the actual climb, at the summit register. The climbing time for the via ferrata is about 2 hours from the start (2 hours and 20 minutes total from the car). The character of the route is predominantly vertical, with an airy finish along the ridge.

Descent

The most direct descent back to Varallo involves following the Sentiero 636C in a northeast direction, then taking the 636B toward the Laghetto di Scarpia (Scarpia Lake). Once at the lake, descend along the 636 trail, which returns to Varallo (about 40 minutes from the end of the via ferrata, for a total of 3 hours from the start of the hike). Along the return path, less than 10 minutes from the end of the via ferrata, there are three stone tables available for a possible rest and snack. The descent trail winds through a wooded environment, offering a stark contrast to the exposure just experienced.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata della Falconera is excellently equipped and is characterized more by athletic commitment than by extreme technical difficulty. The elevation gain is considerable, and the two key passages are physically tough, but progression is always well guided by the cables, reducing the need for actual climbing. Exposure is high and constant throughout the route, with a predominantly vertical development on compact rock. A useful safety detail is that the bolts are numbered, making it easier to pinpoint your location in an emergency.

A unique feature in the Italian landscape is the presence of a nighttime lighting system, generally active on Saturday evenings and near certain holidays (specific days and times can be found on dedicated materials). However, even if using the route at night, a headlamp is essential for the steep return trail. To best tackle the more difficult sections, it can be helpful to consult a guide on how to safely simulate a belay along a via ferrata. The experience is primarily physical, with technical moments concentrated in the overhangs.

For those looking to extend the activity, a natural continuation is the nearby Ferrata del Partusac, whose start is located along the return trail. In the area, other interesting alternatives include the Ferrata dei Picasass on Lake Maggiore (about an hour's drive) or the Biella-area via ferratas such as the Ferrata della Balma, the Ferrata Nito Staich, or the Sentiero Attrezzato dell'Infernone.