Ferrata La Miccia

Overview

Inaugurated in 2020 in Baveno, on the Piedmontese side of Lake Maggiore, the Ferrata della Miccia offers an athletic and demanding alternative to the classic Ferrata Picasass, merging with it in the final stretch of the ascent to Monte Camoscio. The route unfolds over compact granite of excellent quality, making sparing use of staples and metal rungs, and features two spectacular overhanging slabs. The progression alternates between relatively straightforward segments and passages of increasing technical and physical commitment, demanding adequate energy reserves and a solid climbing technique. In the most severe sections, the use of a lanyard to create intermediate belays is strongly recommended; it is also essential to be comfortable with smearing and friction moves, as the polished rock offers few natural holds. Given the modest altitude, the excursion should be avoided during the summer months.

The environment is typically alpine, with granite rock forming smooth slabs and sharp overhangs. The route develops predominantly on vertical terrain, ensuring continuous exposure and a sustained pace that is more technical than physically draining, except at the key cruxes. The character is decidedly vertical and athletic, with technical passages demanding precision and control, balanced by more relaxed sections that offer sweeping views of the lake below.

Approach

The starting point is in Baveno, in the La Tranquilla area. Once you reach the town, head toward the Campeggio La Tranquilla; immediately behind it, Via alle Cave begins, where the hike starts. Parking is available along Via alle Cave or on nearby Via Sesena. From here, take a paved uphill road, well marked with red-and-white trail markers and dedicated signs for both the Ferrata La Miccia and the Ferrata Picasass. The road soon turns to gravel; pass under the highway and continue to a junction, where you keep right, following the signs for both via ferratas. Continue at a moderate gradient until you reach the start of the Ferrata Picasass in about 45 minutes from the parking area. At this point, continue keeping right for another 5 minutes along a clear track until you reach the sign marking the actual start of the Ferrata della Miccia, for a total approach time of about 50 minutes.

The approach follows a well-defined trail that climbs through the wooded slope, offering a pleasant, steady walk without significant ups and downs. The environment is characterized by Mediterranean vegetation that gradually gives way to exposed granite, a prelude to the equipped wall.

Via Ferrata

After the first few meters, the route immediately reveals its determined nature. You climb a wall that combines vertical sections with short traverses to the left, in an initial section that demands careful energy management. You then tackle passages on smooth slabs, where those unaccustomed to smearing may encounter difficulty. Upon reaching a first small ledge, it is advisable to carefully analyze the next sequence.

The climb continues on vertical terrain with some moderately difficult steps, until you encounter the first overhanging wall, equipped with a generous series of staples. This passage, seemingly straightforward, proves physically demanding, especially during carabiner changes. After overcoming this obstacle, in a context of increasing exposure, the route presents new technical sections on slabs and traverses, leading to another sequence of overhanging steps with staples. Here, it is crucial to move fluidly and quickly to avoid excessively tiring your arm muscles. This highly exposed and thrilling section represents the heart of the difficulty; once completed, the hardest core of the route can be considered overcome.

The cable now accompanies easier, more sloping passages, offering splendid views of Lake Maggiore. You thus reach the junction point with the Ferrata Picasass, just before a long three-cable suspension bridge, well-tensioned and stable. After crossing the bridge, you tackle the final easy equipped sections until the end of the metal installations, in about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the start (approximately 2 hours and 45 minutes total from the parking area). A short trail then leads to the summit cross of Monte Camoscio at 890 meters elevation.

The progression is marked by a discontinuous rhythm: technical and physically intense sections alternate with brief rests on ledges. The route is almost entirely vertical, with few horizontal traverses, which accentuates the feeling of exposure. The granite, compact and polished, requires constant attention to the quality of footholds, making the route more technical than purely athletic.

Descent

From the summit, the descent follows the well-marked M3 trail, which leads back to the junction encountered during the approach. From here, you return to the parking area by retracing the approach trail. The descent time is about 45 minutes from the end of the via ferrata, for a total excursion time of about 3 hours and 30 minutes.

The descent trail is easy and well-defined, with a consistent gradient that allows for a quick and technically straightforward return, efficiently closing the loop.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata della Miccia was conceived as an athletic and challenging route. In addition to the two overhanging sections that require arm strength and momentum, it features at least three technical passages on polished rock, devoid of staples or artificial steps, where you must progress using smearing and friction, relying on the few natural holds. The use of a lanyard to create intermediate resting points is very helpful. Due to its low altitude and southern exposure, it is not recommended on hot days during the summer months. For experienced via ferrata climbers, it represents an excellent opportunity to combine two different routes on Monte Camoscio in half a day, also tackling the nearby Ferrata Picasass.

The itinerary is characterized by almost constant exposure and a morphology that favors verticality, with few horizontal resting sections. The granite rock, though excellent, requires a solid smearing technique. The pace is therefore relentless, with difficulties concentrated in short but intense passages, ideal for those seeking a technical and scenic experience in an accessible alpine environment.