Ferrata Eterna alla Marmolada

Overview

The Ferrata Eterna, dedicated to the Brigata Cadore, is a demanding alpine route that runs from Passo Fedaia toward Punta Serauta. This long, multi-faceted climb combines a remarkable variety of technical passages in a severe high-altitude environment, requiring excellent physical fitness and solid via ferrata experience. The final destination is the Serauta area, home to the Museo della Grande Guerra, set in a context of strong historical significance. For the return, one option includes descending from the Marmolada Glacier.

Approach

The route begins at Passo Fedaia, reachable from both Canazei (Trento) and Malga Ciapela (Belluno). After parking near the Rifugio Fedaia, on the Veneto side of the lake, follow the signs at the refuge heading toward the ski slope in the direction of the Marmolada. Shortly after, a sign and subsequent rock markings indicate leaving the main trail to ascend a wide scree slope toward a prominent rocky ridge, following red paint marks and white-red trail markers. The start of the via ferrata is at 2,460 meters, about one hour of walking from Passo Fedaia.

Via Ferrata

The progression begins with a wall tackled diagonally, using good footholds. The route runs over compact but uneven rock, with slabs and cracks demanding constant attention to movement. After this first section, an exposed traverse to the left skirts a corner, leading to a descending diagonal passage. In this stretch, where the rock can be damp and lacking grip, short vertical sections alternate with highly exposed horizontal traverses, intensely taxing the upper body and requiring solid control. You eventually reach a small ledge that offers a moment of rest and a fine view of Lago Fedaia, aware that the most technical section is behind you.

The cable resumes vertically with some zig-zags, in a climb that alternates small slabs with short vertical pitches on rock that is more climbable and holds-rich than the start. The surroundings here become more airy, with the panorama beginning to open onto the surrounding peaks. Exiting this sector completes the first section of the ferrata, after about 30 minutes from the start (total 1h 30'). From here, a broad view stretches from Porta Vescovo to the Sella Group.

The second, long intermediate section begins, ascending the great slab of Punta Serauta. The pace changes: sections of moderately sloping scree alternate with passages on wide slab, without particular technical difficulty but with constant physical effort due to the continuous elevation gain. The gradient gradually increases until a more pronounced step, a prelude to the end of the intermediate stretch and the start of the final part.

The third section opens with a short ledge to the right that, in a slight descent, leads to a notch. From here, you climb up the opposite side in an adrenaline-pumping passage. Continue with a highly exposed traverse, followed by a vertical section that allows you to ascend a corner and gain the ridge. Now begins an airy ridge section with precipices on both sides. The route proceeds without major technical difficulty along the ridge, which at times widens into a more comfortable ledge below the crest. The exposure is constant, and the rhythm is marked by a series of ups and downs between short vertical steps and traverses, taking a toll on fatigue as you near the top station of the cable car for the Rifugio Serauta.

Proceed along the ridge crest to a recess, reached after a fine exposed descent section not to be underestimated. Then climb up the opposite side on an equipped rocky spur, alternating short passages on the eastern side with a continuation mainly on the western side, alongside the Marmolada Glacier and the cableways. The progression stays close to the ridge crest, initially narrow and sharp, then wider and less exposed.

Due to the overall length and exposure, the final descent sections are of sustained difficulty and require a steady foot and maximum attention. Descend some rock steps, a chimney, and a traverse. After losing further elevation on more rock steps, briefly climb a well-holds chimney, then continue upward on a long sloping ramp that returns to the ridge. Next, tackle a steep inclined slab, where progression relies mainly on boot rubber grip, aided by some new fixtures alongside those of the old route. After a short connecting stretch, a chimney equipped with a series of metal rungs greatly eases the passage, putting an end to the technical difficulties.

Walk the final meters along a ledge toward the Zona Sacra del Serauta, an area that during the Great War housed a stubbornly defended Italian outpost. Here you can visit remains of lookout posts, tunnels, trenches, and walkways, rich in historical testimony, as well as the museum at the Rifugio Serauta, the ferrata's endpoint. The travel time from the start is about 4 hours and 15 minutes, of which 3 hours and 15 minutes are on the equipped route.

Descent

For the return to Passo Fedaia, there are two main options. The first involves descending to Malga Ciapela using the cable cars; from there, you must return to the pass by bus or hitchhiking. The second option is the descent from the Marmolada Glacier, staying on the southeast side to reach the ski slopes. This variant, requiring crampons and ice axe, must account for the variable presence of crevasses and the risk of fog, factors that can complicate navigation. As of 2023, this option may be prohibited due to glacier conditions. A further possibility, currently not recommended due to the dilapidated state of the equipment, would be the descent via the old Ferrata Pontura toward Malga Ciapela, pending restoration work.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Eterna is a long, demanding excursion set in a majestic and severe environment. Its three sections have distinct characteristics: the first is the most technical, with passages on varied and often exposed rock; the second is the most tiring due to the continuous elevation gain on slab and scree; the third is the most exposed and varied, with the long, airy final ridge. The sum of these elements makes the route very challenging physically and mentally, even though it does not feature individual passages of extreme technical difficulty. Accumulated fatigue is a crucial factor to consider, given the absence of escape routes, so it is essential to tackle it in excellent physical condition. For the same reason, it is absolutely not recommended to attempt it in uncertain or unstable weather. From the Rifugio Serauta (2,950 m), those who wish can ascend Monte Serauta (3,069 m) via an exposed but not difficult path, partially equipped.