Ferrata dei Finanzieri al Colac

Overview

The Ferrata dei Finanzieri al Colac is a high-quality route that climbs the great rocky face towering above Alba di Canazei in Trentino. While it features some technically demanding passages, the progression is generally smooth and enjoyable, earning it a high difficulty rating. Easy access via the Ciampac cable car makes for a compact day out, ideal for combining with the nearby Sentiero Attrezzato Lino Pederiva.

The route unfolds on a compact dolomite wall with varied terrain, alternating between slabs, dihedrals, and gullies. The climb is predominantly vertical, with a sustained, steady rhythm broken only by short sections of trail or ledges that offer a breather from the technical climbing. Exposure is pronounced from the very start, giving you a deep sense of immersion in the alpine environment right from the beginning.

Approach

The route begins at the top station of the Ciampac cable car, reachable from Alba di Canazei in Val di Fassa. To get there, head from Canazei toward Passo Fedaia and park in the large lot near the lifts. Alternatively, you can hike up from the village on trail CAI 644, which climbs about 600 meters to Rifugio Ciampac in roughly an hour and a half.

From the top station, with the summit of Colac clearly visible, follow signs that initially descend south toward an artificial lake. Then ascend a steep, gravelly trail until you reach the commemorative plaque of the ferrata and the first steel cables, located at 2190 meters. The approach takes about 20 minutes.

Though short, the approach immediately sets the tone: a debris cone at the foot of an imposing wall. The climb up the gravel path prepares you for the rhythm of the ascent, while the view of the rock structure hints at the route's development, which will unfold mainly on vertical features.

Via Ferrata

The equipped climb begins with a series of easy rock steps, where the cable mainly serves as a lifeline. After a few minutes, the equipment briefly ends, and you continue on a gravel trail that switchbacks to the base of the actual wall. You overcome a first short rocky step, then tackle an exposed but straightforward traverse to the left. Descend into a debris-filled gully-a recurring feature of the route-and climb the opposite side on rock steps. A sloping ramp leads to a crack that demands greater technical effort. Once past it, a narrow ledge to the left leads to a slanted wall, often damp and gravelly, equipped with stirrups. This brings you to the heart of the route, of medium difficulty. Climb exposed rocky outcrops, agilely scrambling, until you reach a sequence of three vertical, exposed dihedrals, fitted with stirrups. The progression, at times athletic and overhanging, quickly gains altitude as you alternate sides. Emerging onto a ramp, be extremely careful not to dislodge stones onto the dihedrals below. A subsequent sloping ramp, where the cable aids traction, leads to a panoramic terrace with exceptional views of the Sella Group and Sassolungo. The most challenging section is behind you. A long, equipped high-altitude trail, with short steps and rock outcrops, then funnels into a gully. After exiting, climb an obvious rocky step up to a short chimney that must be straddled. A pleasant series of gullies and small, well-holded walls leads to a ledge, from which a vertical section diagonaling left enters a couloir, a prelude to the finish. Since 2019, the final section has been modified, increasing its difficulty. Move left to tackle a vertical, smooth slab, requiring arm strength and friction climbing due to scarce footholds. After the first few meters, a leftward shift in exposure precedes a slight overhang, the most demanding passage of the entire ferrata, aided by some stirrups. Difficulties gradually ease until you reach the summit ridge. The ridge crest, with stunning views of the Marmolada, leads in a few steps to the summit cross at 2715 meters. The 360° panorama encompasses the main Dolomite groups of Val di Fassa. The climbing time from the start of the ferrata is about 2 hours (2 hours and 20 minutes from the cable car).

The route's rhythm is characterized by near-continuous progression, with few horizontal resting spots. The environment is that of a solid wall, where verticality is broken only by short ledges and debris gullies. The experience is predominantly technical and physical, with constant exposure that enhances its alpine character. The modified final section adds a pure friction-climbing segment, temporarily shifting the rhythm from hold-based progression to a challenge of strength and balance.

Descent

From the summit, backtrack a few meters to enter the steep equipped gully for the descent, marked by writings on the rock. A first equipped section leads to a notch, beyond which a second equally steep couloir drops further. Descend a steep wall with stirrups until you reach a ledge below the east face of Colac. Following the mid-height trail, you reach Forcia Negra (2509 m) in about 1 hour from the summit. From here, two options: The quickest is to follow trail 613, which skirts Colac without difficulty and returns to Rifugio Ciampac and the cable car in about 30 minutes, for a total of roughly 4 hours. Alternatively, you can take the Sentiero Attrezzato Lino Pederiva, heading on CAI 613 toward Passo San Nicolò. At the junction, turn right onto 613B, an equipped mid-height trail beneath Sas de Roces. Reaching Sella de Brunec (2428 m) in about 1 hour and 45 minutes, keep right on CAI 644 to return to Rifugio Ciampac and the cable car in another 30 minutes, for a total of about 5 hours and 45 minutes.

The descent takes place in a different environment-a steep, debris-filled gully that requires caution due to potentially unstable terrain. The rhythm is one of constant, controlled loss of elevation, first on equipped ground and then on trail. The longer option, including the Sentiero Lino Pederiva, offers a complementary experience: a horizontal, airy traverse on ledges that extends the day in a scenic, less physically intense setting.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata dei Finanzieri al Colac is a very enjoyable route, largely climbable and free of extreme difficulties. A couple of passages require attention but not exceptional technical skill or strength. The main risk comes from unstable material (gravel, stones) that can be dislodged and fall, posing a hazard to those below. The 2019 modification to the final section introduces a passage that genuinely requires arm strength and friction. The descent, only partially equipped and steep, also warrants caution, as it may hold residual snowfields early in the season. The route, built by the Guardia di Finanza alpine school between 1979 and 1980, was renovated and partially modified in 2019. Its position on the edge of Val di Contrin makes it an excellent base for combining with other ferratas in the area, such as the Ferrata Ombretta or the more challenging Kajserjager, possibly with an overnight stay in a refuge.

The itinerary is characterized by a classic approach: a direct, logical ascent up a well-defined wall. The rocky environment, typically dolomitic, offers solid, rewarding climbing. The route is physically continuous but not exhausting, with an excellent balance between technical challenge and scenic enjoyment. The constant exposure and excellent equipment make it a complete and accessible alpine experience, while still respecting its high difficulty rating.