Ferrata Ferrari al Gramolon

Overview

The Ezio Ferrari Via Ferrata, on Monte Gramolon in the Piccole Dolomiti near Vicenza, is a short but intense route demanding athleticism and refined technique. Its defining character comes from a line that unfolds predominantly across smooth limestone slabs, tackled with long diagonal traverses. Often considered the natural continuation of a larger circuit that includes the Viali Via Ferrata and the subsequent ascent to Gramolon's summit, it offers a concentrated and technically selective experience.

Approach

The starting point is the Rifugio Bepi Bertagnoli (1225 m), reachable at the end of the road that climbs the Val di Campodalbero in the province of Vicenza. From the south, follow signs for Arzignano and Chiampo, then turn right for Campodalbero after the locality of Valletta. The road, narrow in places, ends at the refuge's parking lot.

The most logical and recommended approach to the Ferrata Ferrari is after completing the nearby Ferrata Viali, with a short connecting section of about 10 minutes between the two. In this case, the total approach time from the parking lot, including the Viali, is approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes.

Alternatively, to reach the start of the Ferrari directly without doing the Viali, from the refuge take trail 211 heading east. After an initial climb and a subsequent descent to the start of the Ferrata Viali (which you ignore), continue on a steadily ascending trail. A steeper right-hand shortcut can save about 15 minutes. Once you reach trail 202, keep right and pass through a short military tunnel (no torch needed). Exiting, continue to a switchback with a bench and take trail 211, signed for the ascent to Gramolon. This steep trail, with short exposed sections equipped with cables, leads to a small saddle. Continuing, you arrive at a signed junction where you keep left, paying attention to a single exposed passage to get around a boulder. You then reach the start of the Ezio Ferrari Via Ferrata in about 1 hour and 15 minutes from the parking lot.

Via Ferrata

The route runs across a compact, polished limestone slab where artificial holds and the rare natural roughness do little to lessen the athletic nature of the progression, which demands numerous smearing moves. Using climbing shoes can offer a decisive advantage in grip.

The route begins with about ten meters of vertical climbing on smooth rock, aided by a few handholds. The cable then swings decisively to the right, tracing a long diagonal traverse at roughly 45 degrees that gradually steepens. This section, overcome using more handholds, ends at an arête. Once around the arête, you enter a dihedral that you cross with a horizontal traverse from the left side to the right.

From the right side of the dihedral begins the most characteristic and exposed section: a smooth diagonal traverse to the right of about 30 meters, to be tackled with maximum concentration. The cable then makes a sharp turn to the left; after this change of direction, you continue with a new traverse heading left.

Once the traverse is finished, the cable resumes a vertical ascent, presenting a first overhanging passage that requires strength and coordination to overcome. This is followed by a final vertical slab with few natural holds, leading out of the wall. You find yourself on a steep, earthy equipped trail, which you climb for a few meters until the end of the fixed gear.

The Ezio Ferrari Via Ferrata takes about 20 minutes from the start. The total time from the parking lot is about 1 hour and 40 minutes (or 3 hours if you also did the Ferrata Viali).

Descent

From the end of the via ferrata, continue along the trail trace that rejoins the path you left earlier and ascend toward the summit of Gramolon. The climb, though steep, is pleasant and not overly strenuous, leading to the summit cross (1814 m) in about 20 minutes from the end of the via ferrata (about 2 hours from the parking lot, 3 hours and 20 minutes with the Viali).

For the return, backtrack on the ascent trail to the junction with trail 202 (20 minutes from the summit). To make a loop route, keep left on trail 202, a wide military-era track that runs along the hillside, until you reach the junction with trail 207. This trail, turning right, descends directly to the Rifugio Bertagnoli and the parking lot in about 1 hour from the summit of Gramolon (for a total of about 3 hours of hiking).

Useful Notes

The Ezio Ferrari Via Ferrata is a short, athletic, and technical route. The nature of the rock and the climbing line make extensive use of the steel cable for safety a frequent necessity. It stands out from other via ferratas in the Piccole Dolomiti for its almost exclusive development on challenging traverses; if it were longer, it could be classified as "Very Difficult." Combined with the Ferrata Viali, it makes the ascent of Monte Gramolon an extremely rewarding and varied outing. The trails in the area are excellently marked, a factor that reduces problems in fog, which is common in the Piccole Dolomiti in the afternoons. The via ferrata was inaugurated in 1997 by the CAI of Arzignano.