Ferrata Ibex

Overview

Opened in August 2024 at Colle in Val Racines (Vipiteno, BZ), the Ferrata Ibex is an athletic mid-altitude route designed for training. It doesn't aim for a summit or a mountain hut, but instead offers a composite and varied itinerary structured into four independent routes. The difficulties span a wide spectrum, from the basic Easy grade up to the challenging Very Difficult and Extremely Difficult variants. The rock, of a stratified type, offers exceptional grip similar to granite, characterizing this new installation, which is perfectly equipped with cables always kept taut.

The setting is dominated by a compact limestone wall, shaped into slabs and dihedrals, developing first vertically and then articulating across ledges and traverses. The itinerary has a discontinuous rhythm, alternating sustained climbing sections with stretches of walking on equipped trails, with sequences of ups and downs that modulate the physical effort.

Approach

Access is from Racines di Dentro, where a large gravel parking lot at the Maso Pulvererhof (1380 m) allows you to park. After passing a wooden hut, head towards the obvious rock face. The start is reachable in just a few steps, marked by a large iron sign (1390 m, about 1 minute from the parking lot).

Via Ferrata

The main route of the Ferrata Ibex is a long and articulated itinerary that overcomes over 300 meters of elevation gain, mixing slabs, dihedrals, traverses, and short overhangs in a varied progression.

Route 1 (Beginner) From the common start, this short sector winds over simple rock steps, small ledges, and trail traces, with difficulties ranging from Easy to Moderately Difficult. Some metal fixtures assist the progression in a context that is never overly exposed. After an equipped flat section and a slight descent, the route ends in 10-15 minutes, making it ideal for a first approach or for supervised children.

This initial section has a predominantly horizontal and didactic character, developing across easy ledges and gullies. The environment is sheltered and the pace is relaxed, allowing you to familiarize yourself with the rock type without particular effort.

Route 2 (Main) This represents the core of the Ferrata Ibex. You can start after Route 1 or directly from the left of the main access, near a sign and a bench. The difficulty increases progressively from Moderately Difficult up to Difficult passages. After an initial section on rock steps and small dihedrals, you encounter an escape route on the left after about 10 minutes. You then proceed on climbable ramps and a rocky ridge, gaining elevation decisively. The most demanding section features short vertical slabs where you need to rely on the steel cable, requiring a certain amount of arm strength.

About halfway through the itinerary (1 hour from the start), you reach a long horizontal traverse that is quite exposed, followed by a panoramic point with a bench. The route continues with an equipped grassy trail and another traverse under the rock, slightly descending. After rounding a challenging ridge, you arrive at a huge dihedral where black and white walls meet, with a view of the "RACINES" inscription. Here a sign indicates the first extreme variant (Route 4). Continuing on the main route, you pass the iron "RATSCHINGS" inscription and shortly after rejoin the end of the short variant. A few more meters and you see the arrival of the second variant (Route 3) rising up. A short trail section finally leads to a bench with the summit logbook (1620 m), the arrival point of the main route after about 1 hour and 40 minutes. The harness must be kept on for the return.

The main route has a discontinuous rhythm, with phases of vertical climbing alternating with long traverses on ledges and trail sections. The exposure is significant, especially on the traverses, while the character is more physical than technical, with long stretches of continuous progression on excellent rock.

Route 3 (Variant "Very Difficult") From the main arrival point, taking the descent route downhill for about 15 minutes, you encounter on the right the marked junction for the "Variante E". This independent itinerary begins with easy rock steps, but immediately presents a large, nearly vertical slab. The rock, extremely rough, offers excellent grip, but the passage requires arm strength. After an oblique section and a tiring traverse, you face the key passage: surmounting an ascending ridge that can be considered Extremely Difficult. A final vertical section, aided by a welcome stirrup, leads to rejoining the final main route after about 30 minutes.

This variant is characterized by a predominantly vertical and athletic approach. It develops across compact slabs and ridges, with a sustained rhythm and few pauses. The exposure is constant and the physical effort concentrated, requiring good arm strength and decisiveness in the key passages.

Route 4 (Variant "Extremely Difficult") In the upper part of the main route, a sign indicates this short but physical and athletic variant. You immediately tackle a large dihedral with a smooth, holdless vertical wall, requiring decisiveness and strength. The key passage is overcoming a demanding small wall with a short overhang, to be considered Extremely Difficult. After a series of dihedrals and an ascending traverse that requires strength, you reach a rest area with benches and rejoin the main route after about 15 minutes.

Short but intense, this variant has a technical and powerful character. It develops across vertical and overhanging structures, with the smooth rock forcing heavy use of the cable. The rhythm is tight and the exposure marked, concentrating a notable athletic effort in just a few meters.

Descent

From the bench with the logbook, the return itself constitutes a section of ferrata in descent, equipped with metal stirrups but without particular technical difficulties. You reach a trail in the woods that, continuing straight, leads back to the initial parking lot in about 30 minutes. The total time for the main route alone is about 2 hours and 40 minutes, which can become 3 hours and 30 minutes including both variants.

The descent is an integral part of the itinerary, with a relaxed pace and a predominantly vertical character but facilitated by the stirrups. The environment changes rapidly from exposed rock to shady woods.

Useful Notes

Being exposed to the east/southeast, the Ferrata Ibex is not recommended on hot summer mornings. In winter, it is only climbable in the complete absence of snow and ice, given its technical and exposed nature. The equipment is excellent and recent, with limited use of stirrups and ladders. The stratified and rough rock offers exceptional grip, comparable to granite. For this reason, especially for the extreme variants, trekking/approach shoes or via ferrata shoes are strongly recommended rather than rigid boots. In terms of difficulty, the two variants are slightly less demanding than the "Gelen Knott" passage of the Ferrata Tabaretta, similar to the first variant of the Ferrata Stuller, but significantly more difficult than the historic Ferrata Pisetta.

The itinerary as a whole combines an athletic approach with great morphological variety. The progression is not monotonous, but alternates moments of concentrated climbing with sections of walking and traversing, offering a panoramic and technically complete experience.