Ferrata Laurenzi al Molignon

Overview

The Ferrata Laurenzi is a challenging ridge traverse that crosses the wildest and most remote sector of the Rosengarten group, linking the Molignon di Dentro to the Molignon di Fuori. This route demands a substantial approach and return, and is often incorporated into a larger circuit that includes other via ferratas in the area. The following description proposes tackling it in the direction from Rifugio Antermoia to Rifugio Tires, starting from the village of Mazzin in the Val di Fassa, Trento.

Approach

The best starting point is Mazzin, chosen for its less demanding access, ideal for conserving energy before the ferrata. From the narrow point in the road, take the steep gravel track that corresponds to CAI trail 580. Ignore the left turn for the more strenuous Sentiero Paola and continue climbing up the Val de Udai. At the junction with trail 577, keep left, staying on the 580, which shortly after meets the 578. Here too, continue left on the 578, which climbs steeply with numerous switchbacks through a striking landscape between the Sas de Dona and the Mantel. This brings you to the Pass de Dona (2516 m) and, after a short descent, to Rifugio d'Antermoia (2496 m). The walking time for this section is approximately 3 hours and 30 minutes.

Via Ferrata

From the hut, head west on trail 584, skirting the magnificent Lago d'Antermoia on your right. After passing the lake, about five minutes later, pay close attention: an unmarked track branches off to the right (north) toward a scree gully. Climb this entire gully, staying on the left branch, until you spot the distinctive red sign on the right marking the start of the Ferrata Laurenzi (about 30 minutes from the hut).

The start immediately presents a vertical, polished wall with few natural holds. The climb begins with a few initial zigzags, then becomes easier and more slabby. You advance across exposed but not difficult slabs, reaching a path that traverses the mountainside at mid-height, offering a fine backward view of the lake and hut. Next, you tackle a series of rock steps, now well-equipped, which quickly lead to the summit of Molignon di Dentro (2852 m), marked by a cairn.

Here begins the most airy and spectacular section of the entire route. You descend along a ridge path on unstable ground, demanding maximum concentration. After a short climb, you descend again into a loose gully to a summit register. You climb back up toward a notch at 2730 meters, beyond which you encounter a vertical and extremely exposed passage, but with good holds. After overcoming this step, you resume the ridge, walking just a few meters from the crest in strong exposure. After climbing another vertical edge, you look back at the ridge section just completed. The equipped trail then continues with traverses and rocky steps of moderate difficulty, always very exposed. Once the most airy part is finished, a steep climb leads to the summit of Molignon di Fuori (2779 m), with exceptional views of the Catinaccio d'Antermoia, the Sassopiatto, and the crest of the Denti di Terrarossa.

You then descend to the northwest, following the track and cairns, until you find the cables that allow you to descend the last rock steps without particular technical difficulty. The ferrata ends at the Passo di Molignon, marked by another red sign. An easy path leads in a few minutes to a signpost, with directions for Rifugio Alpe di Tires (right) or Rifugio Passo Principe (left). The total time from the start at Rifugio Antermoia is about 3 hours.

Descent

Given the overall length of the excursion, it is advisable to break the tour by staying overnight at one of the nearby huts: Alpe di Tires, Bergamo, or Passo Principe. From the latter, reachable in about an hour from the end of the ferrata, you can undertake the via ferrata that climbs to the Catinaccio d'Antermoia. After descending this ferrata on the opposite side, you can return to Lago d'Antermoia and Rifugio Antermoia. The return to the starting point in Mazzin along the approach trail completes a two-day itinerary.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Laurenzi was completely renovated in 2017, transforming a section that was once more alpine into a true via ferrata, albeit a significantly challenging one. The route features strong exposure, has no escape routes, and unfolds in a wild and remote environment of the Rosengarten group. It therefore requires excellent physical fitness, experience, and careful logistical planning, considering the long approach and return times. For maps, detailed maps of the Val di Fassa or the Sciliar, Catinaccio, and Latemar are recommended. The route, dedicated to Laura, wife of Alex, was inaugurated in 1986 by Max Aichner, the historic manager of Rifugio Tires. Given its location, it is perfect for inclusion in a multi-day tour of the Rosengarten, combinable, for example, with the Ferrata Maximilian or other equipped routes in the area such as the Ferrata Santner or the Ferrata Bepo de Medil.