Ferrata Marangoni a Mori

Overview

The Ferrata Marangoni rises up the vertical cliffs above the town of Mori in Trentino, offering a route that is predominantly sporty in character. A recent and complete overhaul of the anchors has substantially changed the progression, softening the more technical passages that, given the smooth and slippery nature of the rock, would otherwise be severe. The technical difficulty is therefore moderate, but the route stands out for its marked and nearly continuous exposure, combined with athletic sections and overhanging stretches that demand good physical fitness. The via is especially suited to the shoulder seasons and mild winters; during summer, given its eastern exposure, it is advisable to start in the early morning hours to avoid the highest temperatures.

Approach

The starting point is the town of Mori, where ample parking is available at the intersection of via Marconi and via della Terra Nera. From here, head toward the town center and take the road that climbs toward the imposing rocky bastion and the Sanctuary, clearly visible from the town. Following the signs, you walk up a steep paved path that leads directly to the Sanctuary square. Ignoring the nearby climbing routes, follow the signs for the via ferrata. The approach from the parking lot to the start takes about 25 minutes.

Via Ferrata

The start of the Ferrata Marangoni has a peculiarity: immediately to the right of the plaque, a short section of about three meters must be tackled in free climbing. A providential stirrup positioned higher up aids progression, allowing you to reach the first secure hold. This initial step reveals the nature of the local dolomitic rock: compact, polished by erosion, offering few natural irregularities, making the use of equipment essential.

Past this initial obstacle, traverse slightly to the right to enter a equipped dihedral, characterized by a slightly overhanging passage but well-fitted with stemples. Exiting the dihedral to the left, climb up an equally well-equipped chimney. Continuing along a rocky ramp and some small rock steps, you reach a broad ledge. Here, after briefly unclipping your carabiners, tackle to the left a vertical wall of 8-10 meters equipped with numerous stemples.

Beyond the wall, the route leads to the first decidedly exposed traverse. This is a horizontal passage across smooth slabs, where evaluating footholds becomes crucial, aided by a few stemples at the most critical points. The traverse continues with a gentle up-and-down; after climbing up a bulge and gaining an edge, turn left to face a narrow, long equipped dihedral. This introduces an athletic and continuous section, with no relaxed resting points.

Exiting this dihedral, a short traverse to the right leads into another equipped dihedral. The climb, while not presenting high technical difficulty, is physically demanding due to its continuity. Using some natural holds, exit the dihedral and continue left on a sloping section, then take a traverse to the left. This leads to the most iconic and airy passage of the entire via ferrata: an extremely exposed traverse that skirts a vertical edge, positioned directly above the starting point. The passage is well assisted by excellent stirrups.

Completing the traverse with a slight descent to a metal plate, climb up another equipped dihedral and, with a diagonal traverse, skirt a new edge, finally reaching a path that allows a well-deserved break and connection to the second half of the route.

After the easy path, you find yourself at the base of a long chimney. This section, potentially very demanding, has its difficulty reduced by the alternating placement of stirrups on the right and left sides. The progression begins diagonally to the right up to a small terrace, then continues vertically on the left side of the chimney.

Exiting onto the panoramic top of the chimney, follow an airy traverse toward an edge, which you skirt with the help of a couple of stirrups. Continue along a ledge and, at its end, climb up a vertical slab then turn left descending over large boulders. Past another edge, tackle an exposed traverse that evolves into a rocky ledge; then climb up a few meters to continue left with moderate difficulty.

You thus arrive near a box containing the summit register, next to a long equipped vertical wall that forms a dihedral in its upper part. The climb in this final section is exposed and, in some spots, requires a slight stomach press, proving tiring. Traverse slightly to the right to tackle the upper part of the wall, with an overhanging section best tackled dynamically. Exiting this long section, traverse left, climb up some easier rock steps, and position yourself below the last wall, slightly overhanging. It is advisable to gather your energy before this final effort. Once the route is finished, a path with wooden steps climbs left to the point where the equipment ends, marking the end of the Ferrata Marangoni.

Descent

From the end of the equipment, climb a short path up to a panoramic bench. For the return, continue along the main path to a first junction, where you keep right uphill. At the next junction, instead keep left, ignoring the signs for Nomesimo and taking the descent for Mori. The path is steep but without technical difficulty and leads back near the Sanctuary, where there are picnic areas. From here, descend back along the approach path to the parking lot. The descent takes about 40 minutes, for a total time of about 2 hours and 45 minutes.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Marangoni has radically changed compared to the original route from the 1970s, evolving into a medium-difficulty via where free climbing is practically impossible. The new equipment has made progression smoother and safer, mitigating the critical issues related to the slippery rock, but the high exposure and athletic character of many sections make it a route not to be underestimated, suitable for already experienced hikers.

Considerable attention to safety is mandatory: it is strongly recommended to wear a helmet and harness already at the Sanctuary, to avoid prolonged stops at the start. A very exposed section of the via ferrata passes directly above the head of those starting, and falling material could be dangerous.

Regarding cartography, the area is covered by several detailed hiking maps. The via ferrata, historically pioneering for its "extreme" and sporty character, can be combined with numerous other equipped routes in the rich area of Alto Garda and the Adige Valley.