Ferrata Marguerettaz

Overview

The Ferrata Marguerettaz is an ideal introductory route for protected climbing. This straightforward path, free of significant technical obstacles, unfolds in a safe and secluded setting, perfect for a first taste of the discipline. Quick and simple access makes it undemanding and easy to enjoy.

Approach

The route begins near Morgex, in the Aosta Valley. From Morgex, take the SR39 toward Arpy and drive to the ninth hairpin turn, where a first clearing allows for parking. From here, proceed on foot for about two hundred meters uphill. Alternatively, continue by car for another two hundred meters past the hairpin to find two additional small parking spots, one on each side, with limited capacity. From the roadside parking, take a dirt track on the right side, closed to vehicles. Follow this forest path, well-marked with yellow-and-black trail signs for the "Hans Marguerettaz" climbing crag. The trail climbs to a fork, where you keep right on a slight traverse; cross a stream over a small wooden bridge and arrive at the first cliffs. Skirt the rocky outcrop on the right, pass the area dedicated to children, and tackle a few switchbacks until you reach the start of the steel cables. The approach takes about thirty minutes.

Via Ferrata

The equipped route begins by ascending a vertical wall, aided by comfortable stirrups. A short detour to the left leads to a long ledge, the starting point for several climbing routes. The path continues along a wide, equipped dihedral with stirrups, then traverses easily to the right on a horizontal section. After a few easy rocky steps, you reach the base of a red ladder with a safety cable. Climb it, move left, and tackle a second red ladder, which leads to a climbing pitch; the actual via ferrata ends on the left. The time on the ferrata itself is about twenty minutes, for a total of fifty minutes from the start of the approach.

The ferrata runs mainly over solid, compact rock, typical of the local formations, offering a protected environment. The pace is pleasant and steady, with no exposed or physically demanding passages, allowing you to focus on basic technique in complete safety. The route is predominantly vertical in its initial sections, then opens onto ledges and wide dihedrals, with moderate exposure that ensures a panoramic experience without anxiety.

Descent

The recommended option is to descend via the ascent route, retracing the equipped path in reverse. This choice is an excellent opportunity to become familiar with down-climbing maneuvers in a simple, complication-free setting. Alternatively, you can bypass the rocky spur on its left (orographic), briefly climbing a marked red forest trail, then descend near the climbing routes and retrace the approach path to the parking lot. For the descent, allow roughly between thirty minutes and one hour and thirty minutes total from the start of the excursion.

Useful Notes

This Ferrata Marguerettaz at Morgex is perfect for initiation: it presents no technical difficulties, excessive exposure, or environmental challenges. For climbing enthusiasts, the nearby crag offers numerous low-grade pitches, ideal for beginners. In the same area, continuing up the valley, you can reach the more demanding Ferrata del Bicentenario al Mont Chetif. For a progression route with children, valid alternatives can be found in the Gressoney Valley with the Ferrata Harry Potter and the Ferrata dei Bambini.