Ferrata Monte Nero

Overview

The ascent of Presanella (3558 m) combines the recently equipped Ferrata Monte Nero with a long approach and a subsequent glacial traverse. This is a big, committing route with serious physical and technical demands, unfolding in a severe alpine environment. It starts from the valley floor in the Val d'Amola, with logistical support at the Rifugio Segantini. The via ferrata is a significant section, but not an isolated one-it's part of a complex itinerary that requires self-sufficiency on rock, ice, and mixed terrain.

Approach

The road access is from State Road 239 between Pinzolo and Madonna di Campiglio. At the height of Pinemonte Basso, a wide hairpin turn leads left onto the road for Val Nambrone. After passing the Rifugio Nambrone, continue on a winding gravel road to a junction: ignore the right turn for Rifugio Cornisello and keep left. After about 11 km (30 minutes of driving), you reach the parking area at the bridge over the Sarca stream (around 2006 m), near Malga Vallina d'Amola.

The hike begins by taking the small road west on trail 211, which passes the malga and quickly turns into a path. It's crucial not to descend toward the malga buildings but to stay on the main track, which crosses a bridge and leads to a junction between trails 211 and 211B. Take the right fork onto trail 211 "Oscar Collini." The route, steep and full of switchbacks, climbs the ridge without technical difficulty, reaching Rifugio Segantini at 2373 m in about an hour.

Behind the refuge, a signpost points toward Presanella (northwest). The track, initially marked in white and red, heads decisively toward a prominent moraine, with the profile of Monte Nero dominating the ridge as a constant reference. The visual target is the notch to the left of Monte Nero: Bocchetta di Monte Nero, the key access point for the via ferrata. The path continues over scree and rocky terrain, maintaining a steady but sustained pace.

Approaching the wall to the left of the notch, you reach the edge of the Vedretta di Monte Nero glacier. Depending on the season, the glacier may be bare ice or residual snow. While it's usually not heavily crevassed and the crossing is relatively short, its slope makes crampons essential. Caution is also needed due to the potential risk of falling rocks. Crossing the glacier diagonally, you reach the rock, where a few Grade I+ climbing moves lead to the start of the via ferrata at 3070 m. This section from the refuge takes about 1 hour 30 minutes, for a total of 2 hours 30 minutes from the parking area.

Via Ferrata

The via ferrata is equipped with new steel cable and numerous anchors, running over often-polished granite rock. It starts on fairly low-angle slabs, aided by a few stemples. The pace is vertical but not extreme, allowing for smooth progress. You then encounter a traverse that's not difficult but exposed, offering a sweeping view back over the entire route from the refuge. The ferrata is not continuous: in some sections the cable ends, leaving short stretches of scrambling and easy rock steps to be climbed free, breaking the "clipped-in" rhythm and demanding extra attention.

You reach a narrow equipped ledge with a wooden walkway-a horizontal, airy section that breaks the verticality. Climbing resumes with a mix of slabs and steps, until you follow an exposed, sloping ramp to the right that leads to the ridge at the highest point of the ferrata (3165 m). From here, the route changes character: the cable descends about 50 meters on the opposite side, toward the Vedretta di Nardis Orientale, with a few easy but assisted downclimbing moves aided by a long series of metal anchors. This marks the end of the Ferrata del Monte Nero, reached about 30 minutes from the start (2 hours from Rifugio Segantini).

Traverse to the Summit

Below, the Vedretta di Nardis Orientale is often covered by a thick layer of large boulders (surface debris); in late season, crampons may not be necessary here. The main difficulty becomes navigation in poor visibility, as white-red markers and cairns are sparse. Continue northwest, ascending the valley floor, following occasional marks to a broad plateau above the glacier.

Crossing the summit plateau, you spot the Bivacco Orobica ahead. Accessing the bivouac requires negotiating a couple of delicate passages: a short equipped descent and an exposed traverse on somewhat loose ground, made safer by a few wooden planks. Following the white-red blazes, you finally reach the Bivacco Orobica, a stone structure at 3382 m. This section from the end of the ferrata takes about 1 hour 30 minutes (3 hours 30 minutes from the refuge).

The summit of Presanella is clearly visible from the bivouac. The final track stays on the left side of the ridge, over mixed rock and scree, with increasing exposure but no particular technical difficulties. You gain the summit (3558 m) in about 45 minutes from the bivouac, for a total of 4 hours 15 minutes from Rifugio Segantini and 5 hours from the parking area. It is the highest point entirely within Trentino territory, with a 360° panorama over the Central Alps.

Descent

The return is by the same route as the ascent. The descent requires particular care on the glacier section and when downclimbing the ferrata. Allow about 5 hours to get back to the car, for a total round-trip time estimated at around 10 hours.

Useful Notes

Along the ferrata, there are many clearly visible white-red blazes indicating the climbing line. On the section between the Vedretta di Nardis Orientale and the Bivacco Orobica, you'll find a few pitons with carabiners useful for belay maneuvers with a rope if needed. Maximum caution is required when crossing the Vedretta di Monte Nero, both for its slope and the risk of falling rocks.

The itinerary is long, with a total elevation gain of about 1550 meters from the refuge. It is strongly recommended to start very early in the morning and consider an overnight stay at Rifugio Segantini to tackle the summit in the early hours, when ice conditions are more favorable. Gear must include crampons and an ice axe, along with a complete via ferrata kit. Given its length, physical demands, and variety of terrain, this route is for experienced, well-trained hikers with glacier and high-altitude experience.