Ferrata Segata al Bondone

Overview

The Giulio Segata via ferrata, traced along the eastern face of Monte Dos d'Abramo in the Bondone group, is a route of modest length but remarkable impact. Although the actual climbing time is estimated at just over thirty minutes, the route stands out for its marked technical character and continuous, significant exposure. Its defining feature is the ascent through two natural perforations in the mountain-vertical tunnels shaped by erosion-that lend a speleological feel to the climb. Completing the ascent and continuing toward the three peaks of Bondone makes for a rewarding experience, blending the intensity of the face with the freedom of the ridge.

Approach

The starting point is near the Viote del Bondone, reachable from Trento or Rovereto via winding mountain roads. Two parking options are available.

The first, more convenient coming from Rovereto, is a large lot along a short dirt road. The second, preferable from Trento, involves passing the Giardino Botanico, taking a dirt road on the left, and driving about a kilometer to park at the roadside. From both locations, trails of similar character lead to the base of the ferrata.

From the first parking area, head up toward Malga Fragari, ignoring the junction for trail CAI 607. Continue for about twenty minutes to a sign on the left for the tour of the three peaks of Bondone. Continuing uphill, you join the CAI 636 trail coming from the left, which you follow to the right. Those opting for the second parking lot immediately follow the signs for the three peaks tour, ascending on CAI 636 and, at the next junction, ignoring CAI 9 descending, until meeting the previous route.

Then continue uphill on the 636 toward Cima Verde (2102 m), reachable in about an hour and thirty minutes from the parking lot. On its grassy summit, spot the CAI 630 for the Sentiero Attrezzato Sparaval on the left. Instead, keep the CAI 636 to the right, heading toward Dosso d'Abramo, which becomes visible to the southwest. The trail runs along a panoramic ridge, a clear chromatic divide between the green pastures to the west and the red rocks to the east. Arriving just below Dosso d'Abramo at a junction, three options present themselves: to the right, the 636 skirts the mountain to the west; straight ahead, the 638A climbs a steep equipped gully; to the left, the 638 "Sentiero Corazza." Take the latter and, after a few meters, at the fork continue straight (while the 638A descends) toward the east face of Dos d'Abramo. This brings you to the base of the wall, where a red sign marks the start of the Giulio Segata ferrata, after about two hours from the parking lot.

Via Ferrata

The start coincides with the most iconic passage: the ascent through a natural vertical hole in the rock. Progression relies on finding natural holds, especially on the right side of the hole, reducing reliance on the fixed cable. The rock, polished smooth by water in this section, makes the climbing physically demanding. The environment is that of a narrow chimney, with light filtering from above. Exiting the top of the hole to the right, traverse left across smooth slabs in strong exposure, with the void opening up quickly. A short vertical pitch leads to a small ledge that introduces the second section.

This section unfolds on a vertical and exposed wall, characterized by compact rock and few holds, often requiring precise climbing moves. A couple of small ledges allow a pause to reorganize progression. The upper part of the wall opens into a crack, where a single non-trivial passage is aided by a metal stirrup used as a handle. This first section ends on a ledge to the right, reached about fifteen minutes from the start. Continuing along the ledge, you intercept an escape route that, ascending the gully of CAI 638A, leads to the summit of Dos d'Abramo.

Continuing instead on the equipped route, you immediately face a vertical and fairly smooth wall. Here, some bolts detached from the rock prove providential, usable as hand and foot holds. The climb continues, also using a couple of additional pegs, until entering a chimney that leads to a small ledge and then into a cavity. This cave, often damp and cool, has a bold and narrow layout. The first meters inside are crucial and require careful use of the pegs on the right and left sides. The ascent inside the cavity continues in a tight chimney, where you proceed in a straddle, alternating pegs and cracks in the rock. Exit the chimney with a couple of agile moves between pegs, then tackle a diagonal section to the right. Beyond this, the difficult Giulio Segata ferrata ends, about thirty minutes from the start (two hours and thirty minutes total). Shortly after, you reach the summit of Doss d'Abramo (2133 m).

Descent

At the end of the Giulio Segata ferrata on Dos d'Abramo, you have two main options. To return toward Cima Verde and the parking lot, descend north via a steep little gully on trail CAI 638A, with some sections equipped with fixed ropes. This leads to a ledge where the ferrata's escape route emerges. Continuing on the track north, you reach the junction with CAI 636 encountered on the approach, then return to the parking lot on the already traveled trail (about an hour and thirty minutes from the summit, for a total of four hours). An interesting return option, once at Cima Verde, is to leave CAI 636 and take CAI 630 (Sentiero Attrezzato Sparavei). This descends steeply, cutting across an imposing rocky ridge with equipped sections, to a junction at Acqua del Maradet. Keeping left on CAI 630B brings you near the parking lot of option two. For this variant, approach from parking option two is recommended.

To continue the hike toward Cima Cornetto (2180 m), from the end of the ferrata proceed south on Dos d'Abramo to descend the southern ridge via CAI 638A, with some equipped sections descending in a gully aided by stirrups. You rejoin the CAI 636, which along the ridge uphill leads to the top of Cornetto in about forty-five minutes (three hours and fifteen minutes total). From Monte Cornetto, retrace the ascent itinerary, skirting Dos d'Abramo from the west on CAI 636, then descend from Cima Verde to the parking lot (total about five hours and fifteen minutes).

Useful Notes

Given the particularly smooth and polished nature of the limestone rock, using climbing shoes can be very helpful for this ferrata, ensuring grip on the more technical passages. For the most challenging sections, it can be advantageous to know techniques for safely resting along a via ferrata, given the continuous exposure. For cartography of the Bondone area, maps dedicated to the Valle dei Laghi and Alto Sarca or to Alta Valsugana are recommended.