Ferrata Sperti

Overview

The Ferrata Sperti is a challenging route that traverses the western flank of the Schiara massif, deep in the heart of the Parco Nazionale delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. This long and varied itinerary first leads to Forcella Sperti, then follows the ridge all the way to the Gusela del Vescovà, where it connects with the Ferrata Zacchi. The climb offers an extraordinary diversity of rock passages and breathtaking views over the major northern Dolomite peaks. Its length and complexity make it an ascent reserved for experienced hikers in excellent physical condition.

Approach

The starting point is the locality of Case Bortot (695 m), in the province of Belluno. From Belluno, take the regional road toward Col di Lana; at the next roundabout, turn right for Bolzano Bellunese, then continue straight in the direction of the Parco Nazionale delle Dolomiti Bellunesi, passing through the hamlets of Bolzano Bellunese and Gioz. Follow the signs for Rifugio Case Bortot until you reach the area where the road ends in a large open space that can be used for parking.

From here, the actual approach begins, with the goal of reaching Rifugio VII Alpini. Take trail CAI 501, initially easy and immersed in dense forest, with the imposing silhouette of the Schiara and the Gusela del Vescovà rising to your right. After about thirty minutes, descend to the Ponte del Mariano; at the next junction, stay on trail 501 (ignoring trail 507 for the Pelf) and begin a steep, strenuous climb along the course of the Ardo stream, on a route that is largely exposed to the sun. The pace is steady and relentless on a well-trodden path that gains elevation through a series of switchbacks, until you emerge into the clearing where Rifugio VII Alpini (1502 m) stands, reachable in about 2 hours and 45 minutes from the parking lot.

From the hut, signs for the via ferrata and the Bivacco Sperti lead you onto trail 504 heading northwest. The path climbs diagonally across grassy slopes and through expanses of mountain pines, heading decisively toward the imposing rock walls of the mountainside. The environment becomes progressively more alpine and open. The start of the Ferrata Sperti is reached in 45 minutes from the hut, for a total of about 3 hours and 30 minutes from the beginning of the hike.

Via Ferrata

The ascent begins with a short rock step, followed by a debris-filled gully at the start of which the route marker plaque is placed. Continue climbing until you reach a vertical wall, tackled from the right with an initial traverse that leads into a shallow chimney. Once past this section, continue on a trail and then onto a ledge that, as it narrows, becomes equipped with steel cables.

The via ferrata leads to a fine rock face, climbed on its left side: the rock, of good Dolomite quality, offers generous holds, punctuated by a couple of more technical passages with smaller holds that demand greater precision. Beyond the face, ascend an equipped, loose gully that leads directly to the Bivacco Sperti (2000 m), nestled in a magnificent setting dominated by the vertical walls of the Schiara and the Pala del Balcon.

After the bivouac, head toward Forcella Sperti, following red paint marks on a trail mixed with short equipped sections. Follow an exposed ledge to the right to round a corner, positioning yourself below the steep couloir that leads to the notch. The ascent of this couloir, wedged between rock spires, is demanding and physically continuous: you climb initially on the right side, with the cable running along your shoulder, quickly gaining height and exposure. Two ladders allow you to move to the left side of the gully, taking great care not to dislodge stones. Staying to the left of the couloir, overcome the final meters until you reach Forcella Sperti (2250 m).

From the notch, the red marks to the right lead onto the connecting ridge between the Gusela del Vescovà and the Pala del Balcon. The route continues with a constant up-and-down along panoramic ledges, a succession of bumps and notches that set the rhythm of the itinerary. Cross an equipped gully (the upper part is less steep and not equipped) and alternate trail sections with rock passages. Another fairly vertical gully is ascended with the cable on the right side. After rounding a rocky spur on an exposed ledge, you reach the Nasòn. Continuing eastward, an equipped section leads to a gully to be climbed without fixed aids, up to the last equipped passage along the ridge that ends at the Gusela del Vescovà, near the Bivacco Dalla Bernardina (2320 m). The via ferrata takes about 3 hours from the start, for a total of 6 hours and 30 minutes from the departure point.

Descent

From the Bivacco Dalla Bernardina, there are two main options for the return. The first, longer but very rewarding, involves climbing to the summit of Schiara (about 1 hour) via the Ferrata Berti, followed by descent along the east ridge and the Ferrata Piero Rossi down to Rifugio VII Alpini (about 3 hours and 30 minutes from the summit, 4 hours and 30 minutes from the bivouac). The second option is to return via the same Ferrata Sperti back toward the hut (about 3 hours from the bivouac). Direct descent via the Ferrata Zacchi is strongly discouraged due to its difficulty. From Rifugio VII Alpini, descend to Case Bortot along the approach trail in about 2 hours, bringing the total time for the loop with the Schiara summit to about 13 hours, or 11 hours and 30 minutes for the reverse return without the summit.

Useful Notes

Given the considerable length of the itinerary, especially if including the ascent to the summit of Schiara, it is highly advisable to split it over two days, staying overnight at Rifugio VII Alpini or at one of the high-altitude bivouacs (Sperti or Dalla Bernardina). The upper section between Forcella Sperti and the Bivacco Dalla Bernardina, while not presenting extreme difficulty, runs along gullies, exposed ledges, and airy trails that can create serious navigation problems in fog. Although technically considered less difficult than the nearby Ferrata Zacchi, the Ferrata Sperti is absolutely not to be underestimated due to its length, continuous physical effort, and numerous exposed passages that demand constant concentration. The rock in the initial section is generally good and offers holds even where fixed equipment is absent. Before undertaking the hike, it is essential to check the condition of the routes, as in the past the via ferrata and the bivouac have been closed; it is recommended to contact Rifugio VII Alpini for updates.