Ferrata della Memoria al Vajont

Overview

The Ferrata della Memoria al Vajont is a modern route that demands high levels of both physical and technical commitment, fully equipped with numerous metal aids. The route unfolds predominantly vertically up the steep limestone walls of the Vajont Gorge, a severe environment historically marked by the 1963 tragedy. The itinerary is characterized by continuous and pronounced exposure, requiring excellent athletic fitness due to the succession of demanding vertical pulls on polished rock.

Approach

Access is from the road connecting Longarone (BL) to Erto (PN). Coming from the south along State Road 51, follow the signs for Erto in Longarone, turning right. After crossing the Piave River, the road begins to climb with a series of switchbacks. At the sixth switchback, you'll spot a small descending side road on the right; taking it leads in a few minutes to a large, well-marked parking area.

From the information board in the parking lot, take the path into the woods, indicated by signage. Shortly, you'll reach the entrance to a first tunnel: it's time to put on your helmet and via ferrata kit. You must have a headlamp. Walk through this tunnel, about a hundred meters long, to exit onto a ledge on the left. Follow this ledge to reach a second, shorter tunnel (about 40 meters). At its exit, the Ferrata della Memoria officially begins. The approach takes about fifteen minutes.

Via Ferrata

The equipped route begins with a ledge heading left, where the cable acts as a simple handrail. The path, on mixed ground of earth and rock, is initially wide and easy. Proceed around a corner to find yourself on a new side of the gorge, where the foothold space progressively narrows. After passing through another tunnel, the ledge ends and you tackle an airy traverse on solid metal rungs. Resuming a wider ledge, with trees on the right, go around another corner with a second traverse on stirrups. A short ledge section finally leads to a sturdy metal ladder about ten meters high: here the true ferrata begins, with a clear change in character.

Exiting the ladder, turn right into strong exposure. Now the major difficulties begin: using some rungs, climb up a polished wall searching for the few natural holds until reaching a small balcony. The cable continues to the right with a short traverse before heading decisively upward again. The rock, very smooth, makes the progression athletic and difficult to climb, but is facilitated by rungs, stirrups, and handles. Continue with various vertical pulls interspersed with narrow resting ledges, until reaching a wider ledge.

After a series of easy rock steps and connecting sections, you reach a dihedral about ten meters high. The cable rises to the left on a smooth wall practically devoid of footholds, aided only by an artificial stirrup. This is probably the most challenging passage of the route: short (about 4 meters) but requiring pure strength. Once past it, you'll find more holds on the right, with natural handholds and stirrups helping to ascend the second part of the dihedral. Exiting this, a short ledge to the left precedes a new vertical ascent on a more manageable wall. Climb alternating rock steps and ledges, being careful of the occasionally unstable ground, especially if wet. Then tackle a polished slab equipped with a long series of metal rungs, before reaching a ledge on the left that progressively narrows to a traverse.

A diagonal traverse introduces a very exposed vertical section that leads to an earthy ledge. Following it to the left brings you to a new vertical wall about thirty meters high, rich in handles and stirrups but with dirty ground, requiring caution. Continuing, you encounter another very exposed traverse, followed by a vertical ascent that bends right near a groove. Here the rock is more jagged and handles abound. Climb up to a new airy traverse that uses foot stirrups and ends on mixed terrain. A final vertical section of about twenty meters, with many handles and good holds, concludes the section.

The sixth and final section begins. Ascend a long series of more slanted rock steps and ledges, where you can often climb with less pull on the cable. Turning left, a diagonal traverse precedes a succession of rock ledges of medium-low difficulty. A long, wide ledge to the right leads to the second ladder, essential for overcoming a rock roof that would otherwise be extremely difficult. Once the ladder is finished, the final meters of climbing put an end to the exposed Ferrata della Memoria. The pace is intense and continuous, with few real rest stops. The climbing time from the start is about 2 hours (2h15' from the parking lot).

Descent

From the end of the ferrata, follow the trail marked with number 380 to a junction. Here you have two options: turning left continues towards Casso, then descends back to the starting point along a marked path (about 1 hour from the ferrata, for a total of 3h15'). Turning right instead reaches the Vajont dam. From there, descend along the paved road and, after the second tunnel, take the path marked 380 on the left through the woods, which leads back to the parking lot (about 1h15' from the ferrata, total 3h30').

Useful Notes

This Ferrata della Memoria is a recent route dedicated to the 1963 Vajont tragedy. The equipment is modern and in excellent condition. A distinctive feature is the informational plaques along the route that report altitude and GPS coordinates, useful in case of need for rescue. During the route, you walk on ledges that run parallel to sections already traversed below: it is essential not to dislodge stones or debris to avoid endangering hikers following behind.

The itinerary provokes mixed opinions. Many find it excessively physical, with passages where you are forced to pull heavily on the cable or rely predominantly on the numerous metal structures. Others appreciate it as an adrenaline-pumping, exposed, and athletic ferrata that requires strength and preparation. Both views contain elements of truth. It is reminiscent in commitment and verticality of modern ferratas like the Sci Club 18. It is an intense route, to be tackled only if in excellent physical shape and without issues with exposure. The difficulties lessen noticeably in the second half of the route.

The Vajont area and the Belluno Dolomites are rich in other equipped routes, from the short ferratas near Longarone like the Parete dei Falchi and Val Gallina, to the more demanding ones in the Civetta group (Sora el Sass, Alleghesi, Tissi, Costantini) or the Schiara group (Sperti, Berti, Mormol, Zacchi). Moving towards Agordo, you'll also find the starting point for the challenging Ferrata Stella Alpina on Mount Agner.