Ferrata Zacchi allo Schiara

Overview

The Ferrata Zacchi is a demanding route with a powerful scenic impact, cutting across the severe southwest face of the Schiara Massif in the Parco Nazionale delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. The progression unfolds through a dynamic sequence of chimneys, exposed traverses, ledges, and slabs, delivering a varied technical experience that never feels repetitive. The surrounding environment is classic Dolomites, with the mighty walls of the Schiara dominating the horizon. This is a long and physically punishing route, suitable only for well-trained hikers with solid preparation, especially considering that completing the full loop necessarily involves tackling other via ferratas of medium-high difficulty.

Approach

The route begins at Case Bortot (695 m) in the province of Belluno. From Belluno, take the regional road to Col di Lana; after a roundabout, turn right toward Bolzano Bellunese, heading for the Parco Nazionale delle Dolomiti Bellunesi. Continue past the hamlets of Bolzano Bellunese and Gioz, following signs for the Rifugio Case Bortot. Just past the refuge, after a few meters, you reach a large square where the road ends and you can park.

From here, the approach to the Rifugio VII Alpini begins. Take trail CAI 501, initially wide and pleasant through the woods, with the Schiara and the distinctive Gusela del Vescovà already in clear view. The trail descends to the Ponte del Mariano (reached in about 30 minutes); after crossing the bridge, at a fork keep left on trail 501. The climb continues with a steady, steep gradient, gaining elevation along the Torrente Ardo in a section that is often sunny and strenuous. After a series of switchbacks offering views of the valley, you emerge into the clearing where the Rifugio VII Alpini (1502 m) stands, reached in about 2 hours and 45 minutes from the parking area.

For the final stretch to the start of the ferrata, follow the signs behind the refuge and the CAI 503 markers. The trail climbs steeply toward the imposing southern walls of the Schiara, passing near the rock formation known as the Porton. You then reach the start of the Ferrata Zacchi in about 45 minutes from the refuge, for a total of 3 hours and 30 minutes from the beginning of the hike.

Via Ferrata

The equipped route shares its start with the Ferrata Piero Rossi. The beginning is immediately severe, making the character of the route clear from the outset. You initially climb diagonally, then tackle a first vertical chimney of a few meters, followed by a traverse to the right on stepped rock. The cable skirts a flat section to enter a narrow gorge, where you ascend a few ladders without significant technical difficulty. Exiting the gorge, you follow a ledge to the left and a remarkably airy horizontal traverse, which leads beneath a series of ladders in fine exposure. Continue by climbing a gully, alternating between natural rock climbing and using stirrups, while the view of the Dolomiti Bellunesi gradually expands.

The cables stop for a connecting trail section that leads to the junction between the Ferrata Piero Rossi and the Zacchi. Keeping left, follow a trail that climbs through dwarf pines and some rock steps, after which the cables resume. You tackle a traverse followed by a vertical climb, first overcoming some small rocks and then entering a new, rather demanding chimney. Surrounded by high walls, you alternate between beautiful ledges, passages on small rocks, ladders, and vertical steps until reaching an exposed section of un-equipped trail, which requires particular attention. Walk this section, then begin a diagonal climb to the left.

The cables stop and resume several times. Climb a ladder and, after a flat trail section, enter an equipped ledge to the left that rounds a corner, bringing the Gusela del Vescovà into view. Finally, you traverse the route's distinctive section, the so-called "Cengia Zacchi", uniquely equipped, which quickly leads to the Bivacco Ugo dalla Bernardina (2320 m), set opposite the unmistakable silhouette of the Gusela. The time for the ferrata is about 2 hours from the start, for a total of 5 hours and 30 minutes from the beginning.

Descent

From the Bivacco della Bernardina (2320 m), two options are possible for the return: take the Ferrata Gianangelo Sperti, which leads directly back to the Rifugio VII Alpini, or the longer itinerary described here, which includes the ascent of the Schiara.

So, take the Ferrata Antonio Berti uphill, which leads to the summit of the Schiara (2565 m) in about 1 hour from the bivouac (total 6h 30'). From the summit, descend east toward Forcella Marmol. This ridge section is decidedly exposed and only protected in a few spots. Follow the track that descends steeply toward the recently renovated Bivacco Bocco Zago. After reaching a sign, keep right for the bivouac, from which the Rifugio VII Alpini is already visible below.

From here, enter the Ferrata Piero Rossi (or Ferrata Marmol) and descend it to the junction with the Zacchi, already encountered on the ascent. Following the signs for the refuge, descend the approach trail until you reach the Rifugio VII Alpini in about 3 hours and 30 minutes from the summit (total 10h). The final return to Case Bortot is via the approach trail in reverse, taking about 2 hours from the refuge, for a grand total of about 12 hours.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Zacchi is a demanding but never extremely difficult route, characterized by a great variety of passages. It combines well-equipped sections with others where you need to seek natural holds, making it very pleasant and rewarding for the right mix of verticality, exposure, and technique. Caution is needed on the unprotected sections, particularly one noted stretch, which require concentration. Fog and low clouds are frequent in this area.

The determining factor is the overall length of the hike and the considerable elevation gain, which require excellent training and endurance. Given the commitment, it is strongly recommended to split the itinerary over two days, staying overnight at the refuge or at one of the high-altitude bivouacs. The described itinerary, which also includes the Berti and Piero Rossi ferratas, is to be considered very demanding and suitable only for experienced hikers in excellent physical condition.