Ferrata Val del Rì

Overview

The Ferrata Val del Rì is a modern route that unfolds through the deep, spectacular gorge carved by the Rio Fai, a stream that descends from the Fai della Paganella plateau toward the Piana Rotaliana. The itinerary is defined by a direct and continuous progression within the narrow canyon, achieved primarily via metal steps and stirrups fixed onto smooth slabs or scree slopes. The constant presence of the steel cable ensures safety on a route that, while lacking a summit as its goal, offers a dynamic and enjoyable experience in a cool environment rich with vegetation and evocative waterfalls.

Approach

The route begins at Località Toresela, easily reachable from the center of Mezzolombardo. There are several parking options: you can park behind the parish church (limited spaces) or drive up toward the cemetery (loc. Camposanto) and use its large parking area. From the cemetery, it's just a few steps to cross the long suspension bridge that leads to Toresela. Alternatively, you can take the small road to Toresela and park after about 150 meters in a clearing on the right, then walk for a couple of minutes to the panoramic terrace-an ideal spot to gear up. From this viewpoint, descend a few steps and take the trail that passes under the suspension bridge. Keeping to the right, follow a comfortable path for 3-4 minutes, protected by cord or wooden railings, until you cross the stream over boulders. You have now reached the start of the Ferrata Val del Rì, clearly marked.

Via Ferrata

The climb begins with an initial sequence of steps on a vertical wall, with no significant technical difficulties. The pace is immediately sustained, alternating between sections on metal steps and short zig-zags over steep, unstable terrain. After a long vertical staircase and a brief exposed traverse to the right, you tackle the first Tibetan bridge, short and well-tensioned, near a waterfall. Once across the bridge, climb onto a rocky spur via more steps and follow an airy stretch along the ridge, which then leads into an easy equipped trail. This brings you to the second Tibetan bridge, longer and more exposed than the first, allowing you to cross back to the right orographic side of the stream. The route continues along a small crest and then a forest path, initially flat and then descending toward the gorge. Here begins a long traverse skimming the water, mostly on stirrups. The difficulty increases slightly at a specific passage where the footholds are recessed, requiring more arm strength. After climbing a few meters and making an oblique traverse to the right, you enter the narrowest part of the canyon. You negotiate a curve in the wall in one of the most challenging sections of the entire route, characterized by more widely spaced holds. Continuing in traverse, you alternate a short descent and a climb on comfortable stirrups, arriving near the third Tibetan bridge, positioned very low near the streambed. The route continues in an ascending traverse on the right orographic side, offering a stunning scenery dominated by waterfalls and a large boulder wedged between the walls. Climb up this boulder and continue gaining height on slightly overhanging steps, then tackle more traverses on rock slabs and natural holds. The rock, often damp and covered in moss, makes systematic use of the metal stirrups necessary. About halfway through the complete itinerary, the cable leads onto a steep trail, wet and muddy, hugging the wall-ascend it using trees and a rope for assistance. Overcome a slightly overhanging small wall with steps, pass through a crack, and proceed between wall, trees, and roots until you reach a narrow panoramic fissure between two walls, to be traversed in a slight descent. The route descends again through soft ground, small rocks, and saplings, drawing closer to the water, then climbs a small ridge to a short ledge. After a traverse to the right and a descending section, you are once again at stream level, in view of another waterfall. Cross the stream over large boulders and reattach to the cable on the opposite side. Here awaits a long series of vertical steps with a slight overhang, the third passage that can be considered the most difficult due to exposure. Moving left, climb alongside the waterfall using steps and terrain until the fourth and final Tibetan bridge, the shortest. Once across, a few steps in traverse lead onto a simple equipped trail. The ferrata reaches a crucial junction: taking the left cable immediately puts you onto trail 602B for the return, concluding the partial version (about 1h20' from the start). Instead, following the less obvious right cable in descent continues with the complete version, of similar or lesser difficulty. Overcome a rocky shoulder to the left, climb about twenty meters on steps, and continue on damp but easy terrain, drawing closer to other small waterfalls. After another short traverse that is demanding on the arms, you face the perhaps muddiest section on the ascent. With a couple of zig-zags on an easy equipped trail, you finally emerge onto the historic trail 602B (20 minutes from the junction, 1h40' total from the start). The ferrata is finished. Continuing uphill for 4-5 minutes, you reach the comfortable clearing "Loc. Giuel," just above a small concrete bridge.

Descent

From the "Loc. Giuel" clearing, equipped with benches and a drinking fountain and ideal for removing your harness, retrace the last section of trail in reverse, following the signs for "Mezzolombardo sent. 602B." Descend comfortably along this path, go around the cemetery keeping it to your left while skirting its perimeter wall, and return to the parking area in about 35 minutes (for a total complete circuit of about 2h20' from the start). For those who parked at Toresela, follow the signs for the "Ponte Sospeso" to return to the starting point in a few minutes.

Useful Notes

Being a low-altitude, easily accessible ferrata, it is climbable year-round and lends itself to being combined with other short ferratas in the area. However, it is not recommended during the central hours of summer days, despite the cool, shady environment refreshed by the waterfalls. It is advisable to bring a change of shoes in the car, as you are likely to get your feet wet and muddy, especially after heavy rains. In case of heavy precipitation in the preceding days, the stream's flow can increase significantly. In terms of difficulty, the Ferrata Val del Rì is slightly longer and more challenging than the nearby Ferrata Rio Secco, with which it shares the greatest similarities. It also recalls in some aspects the central part of the Ferrata Burrone Giovannelli in Mezzocorona.