Ferrata delle Scalette Torre di Toblin

Overview

The Ferrata delle Scalette climbs the imposing northwest face of the Torre di Toblin in the Sexten Dolomites. It is a short but concentrated route, characterized by notable exposure and several technical moves that demand precision. The setting is visually stunning, with open views over the most famous Dolomite pinnacles. The route is commonly completed by descending the nearby Ferrata Hosp, creating a logical and highly appealing loop.

Approach

Access begins at the Rifugio Auronzo (2320 m), reachable by car from Misurina via a 7 km toll road. From here, follow the Sentiero 101, a comfortable and scenic path that leads to the Rifugio Lavaredo (2344 m) in about 30 minutes. Continue with a steeper gradient to Forcella Lavaredo (2454 m, 45 minutes total), a natural balcony overlooking Monte Paterno, the Sasso di Sesto, and the Torre di Toblin. Descending along Sentiero 101, keep straight, ignoring any left branches, and arrive at the Rifugio Locatelli (2450 m) in about 1 hour and 15 minutes from the start. From the hut, follow the red triangles northward, circling the Sasso di Sesto while skirting the left side of the Torre di Toblin; pass a World War I shelter and a distinctive metal cross. Red markings on the rock then guide you to the start of the route in about 20 minutes from the hut, for a total approach time of about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Via Ferrata

From the markings, some red arrows direct you onto moderately difficult rock slabs, first left then right, up to a marble plaque that recalls the route's military origins. The ferrata begins immediately with determination in a well-equipped dihedral, moderately challenging but rich in holds. Turn right to ascend a stepped crack, exit left, and diagonally reach the first metal ladder. After crossing it, short steps lead to the first decidedly exposed section: climb a ridge next to an old wooden plank, then tackle two fully exposed ladders. The passage is not technically complex, but it marks the entry into the verticality of the environment. After the ladders, a ledge to the right passes under a rocky roof. This leads to the central and most characteristic section: a crack enters a long chimney equipped with ladders. The first two climb vertically, the third crosses the chimney perpendicularly, quite slanted, bringing you to the opposite side. A subsequent vertical section, not difficult, introduces the most challenging passage. To reach a ladder on the left side of the chimney, you must proceed in a stemming move (spaccata), as the left wall is smooth, often damp, and lacks footholds. The greatest effort is in the first two moves to hook onto the right side; then, carefully searching for holds, you gain the ladder. Exiting the chimney, traverse some slabs to the left and an exposed traverse with stirrups, with an exceptional view behind you. You find yourself at the base of the final chimney, ascended via numerous ladders. Two ladders climb within the crack, then you move left in full exposure for another ladder. The final sections involve climbing an exposed but well-holded ridge, a fold to the right, and a final ladder next to World War I remnants, leading to the summit plateau with the Summit Cross of the Torre di Toblin (2617 m). The time for the via ferrata is about 45 minutes, for a total of about 2 hours and 15 minutes from the parking lot.

Descent

From the summit, the recommended descent is along the Ferrata del Cappellano Hosp, also equipped (about 30 minutes from the summit, 2 hours and 45 minutes total). This option is preferable due to high traffic and because the Ferrata delle Scalette, with its three more challenging passages, is more logical as an ascent. Once back down, retrace the approach trail in reverse towards Rifugio Locatelli, Forcella Lavaredo, and finally Rifugio Auronzo. This return takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes from the end of the Ferrata Hosp (1 hour and 45 minutes from the summit), for a total hike duration of about 4 hours.

Useful Notes

Despite its brevity, the Ferrata delle Scalette alla Torre di Toblin should not be underestimated. Although it largely develops on metal ladders (medium-easy difficulty), it features three distinct passages that raise its difficulty: the initial dihedral, the stemming move in the chimney, and the final ridge. These, combined with the constant exposure, make it a difficult route for the average via ferrata enthusiast. For a fit hiker, the perceived difficulty will be moderate, but the combination of technical and environmental factors is significant. The setting of the Sexten Dolomites is magnificent and the ferrata is very popular. To avoid queues, it is advisable to tackle it early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Given the popularity of the area, consulting a detailed map, such as one dedicated to the Sexten Dolomites, is useful.