Ferrata dei Caprioli

Overview

The Ferrata dei Caprioli is a new equipped route that cuts across the southwest face of the Antelao Group, towering over the San Vito di Cadore basin. With a duration of about an hour and a quarter, it's a short, ideal half-day itinerary, featuring moderate approaches and descents. The climb stays pleasant and presents no demanding technical passages, making it an accessible option.

The setting is classic Dolomites, with limestone rock unfolding across a system of ledges and short walls. The route has a stop-and-go rhythm, alternating vertical sections with horizontal traverses, but never reaching marked exposure. The character is predominantly scenic and easy-going, suitable for anyone seeking a first taste of protected climbing.

Approach

The starting point is the spacious parking lot at Baita Sun Bar, above San Vito di Cadore (BL). From San Vito, follow the uphill road signed for the hut for about a kilometer to the clearing. Continue on foot following signs for Rifugio Scotter and San Marco, along with CAI trail markers and the specific ferrata sign. Take a dirt road (trail 228), cross a stream, and walk for about twenty minutes. At the next junction, keep left, entering a forest with a steep incline. Continuing uphill, guided by signs, you reach a grassy clearing from which the route's rocks come into view. The final minutes of ascent lead to the base of the wall; moving left, you reach the start of the via ferrata. The approach takes about an hour.

The approach winds through a forested environment on a well-marked trail that steadily gains elevation. The pace is consistent, with no significant ups and downs, gradually preparing you for the rocky terrain ahead.

Via Ferrata

The itinerary begins with an initial ramp, followed by a traverse to the left. You proceed on an easy section, but watch your footing-the ground is often muddy and slippery. The climb continues up a series of short walls, alternating with vertical sections and traverses that remain always manageable. The route gains character with a more challenging traverse to the right. After rounding a corner, the route becomes more vertical, developing on solid, compact rock that makes progression rewarding. After the final meters of cable, the first section ends on a panoramic ledge.

After a brief pause, the second part of the climb begins. You tackle a short wall of gray limestone and, with a traverse to the left, move beneath a smooth slab equipped with metal rungs to aid the ascent. The progression continues with a series of steps (watch for sandy ground) and a subsequent exposed section featuring a horizontal traverse to the right. Once the traverse is done, the route resumes vertically, climbing a beautiful dihedral of yellowish rock that, in its upper part, turns into a gully. With the final easy meters, the experience on the Ferrata dei Caprioli concludes. The ferrata takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes to complete, for a total of about 2 hours from the start of the approach.

The morphology is varied: smooth slabs, dihedrals, and gullies alternate, with a predominantly vertical development broken by ledges that allow brief rests. The rhythm is discontinuous, with concentrated climbing sequences interspersed with walking sections. Exposure is moderate and concentrated on the horizontal traverse, while the technical character remains elementary, with new equipment that facilitates progression.

Descent

From the end of the equipped route, you enjoy a fine panorama of the Cadore Valley, with San Vito in clear view, and a majestic gaze upon the walls of the King of the Dolomites, Antelao. For the return, follow trail 225, which leads to Rifugio San Marco. From there, taking trail markers 228, descend first to Rifugio Scotter and then, continuing, return to Baita Sun Bar, passing the junction encountered on the way up. The descent takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes, bringing the total hike time to about 3 hours and 30 minutes.

The return trail is a well-maintained hiking path that descends at a steady grade through the forest. The pace is smooth, allowing you to admire the surrounding Dolomite landscape in complete safety.

Useful Notes

This valley ferrata offers the advantage of a short approach and an overall brief, low-exposure itinerary, suitable even for those seeking an introduction to equipped terrain. Since it's a recent route, keep in mind that the rock surface may still be dirty with debris and soil, a factor requiring caution on some passages. The equipment is in excellent condition. The route was inaugurated in June 2024 and takes its name from the Caprioli Association of San Vito di Cadore. For navigation, it's advisable to bring adequate maps of the area.

The itinerary is characterized by its accessibility and panoramic position, ideal for an outing without major physical or technical demands. Its recent construction guarantees excellent equipment conditions, but calls for attention to rock cleanliness, especially after weather events.