Ferrata del Monte Emilius (Col Carrel)

Overview

The Monte Emilius via ferrata ranks among the most demanding routes in the entire Alpine arc, distinguished by its remarkable length, significant elevation gain, and high-altitude environment that demands preparation and respect. The total route exceeds 16 kilometers, and the most balanced approach is to split the ascent over two days, staying at the Rifugio Arbolle or the more basic Bivacco Federigo. This choice allows you to fully experience the majesty of the route without the pressure of time, transforming the undertaking into a deeper, more contemplative experience.

Approach

The logical starting point is the top station of the Pila ski lifts, specifically at Chamolè. From here, take trail marker 19c, which continues onto trail 19a, reaching the Rifugio Arbolle in about an hour and a half, after a short descent into the valley of the same name. The route passes through a mid-mountain environment, with grassy slopes that gradually give way to more rugged scenery. From the refuge, the approach march continues by descending along trail 14 into the Vallone di Comboe, a wide, debris-filled gully that introduces the severity of the glacial landscape. At a junction, keep right, following trails 16c and then 16a, which lead in a further ninety minutes to the Bivacco Federigo, situated at 2907 meters below the Colle Carrel. The total approach from Chamolè to the bivouac takes about three hours and forty-five minutes, a journey that prepares you physically and psychologically for the high altitude. The start of the via ferrata is located immediately behind the bivouac.

Via Ferrata

The Monte Emilius via ferrata unfolds along the north and northwest ridge, from the Colle Carrel to the summit at 3551 meters, tracing a spectacular and continuous line. From the bivouac, an obvious path leads to the start of the fixed equipment. The route winds predominantly along the crest of the ridge, an exposed and airy environment, alternating between scrambling up easy rock steps and exposed but non-technical traverses, which primarily require balance and mental composure. The progression is rhythmic and steady, without abrupt interruptions. A distinctive passage is the downclimbing section that leads to a very exposed suspension bridge, featuring a wooden walkway that crosses a deep notch in the ridge. After crossing the bridge and the summit of Mont Ross, the via ferrata continues on the right side of the mountain across inclined granite slabs, offering a more vertical and physical progression on solid, compact rock. In this section, there is a marked escape route that descends towards the Lago Gelato.

The route continues with a constant alternation between sections of ridge trail, where you can walk freely, and more vertical or exposed passages, secured by cables and metal rungs. You overcome beautiful granite slabs up to the Petit Emilius (3342 m), a crucial panoramic viewpoint. Staying always to the right of the ridge crest, you tackle rocky steps and a vertical section equipped with metal fixtures, where it is common to encounter a snowfield even in high summer, adding an alpine component to the route. After a final rocky rise, you traverse the final ridge, wide and panoramic, which leads to the summit cross in about ten minutes. The climbing time from the Bivacco Federigo is approximately four hours and thirty minutes, for a total of seven and a half hours from the start of the hike.

Descent

From the summit of Monte Emilius, the descent follows the normal route, initially over unstable scree in the direction of the Passo dei Tre Cappuccini, a section that requires careful foot placement. You then skirt the Lago Gelato, nestled in a glacial basin, and continue along the trail until you reach the Rifugio Arbolle in about two hours and thirty minutes from the summit. From the refuge, you return to the starting point at the ski lifts by retracing the approach trail in about an hour. The total time for the loop, including the via ferrata and descent, is approximately eleven hours.

Useful Notes

The via ferrata is in excellent condition with appropriately placed equipment. Given the high altitude and northern exposure, it is highly recommended to carry crampons and an ice axe at least until the end of July, as it is common to encounter persistent snowfields that can render some equipped sections impassable, transforming simple passages into challenging snow traverses. In the final part of the route, pay attention to a few short, unprotected sections where the rock can be unstable. It is essential to undertake the ascent only in stable weather conditions and after a careful assessment of your own physical and technical abilities. The route, distinctly alpine in character, is extremely rewarding, and splitting it over two days is the most sensible way to complete it, also considering the closing times of the ski lifts.