Ferrata della Pietra di Bismantova

Overview

The Ferrata degli Alpini is a classic equipped route that unfolds along the distinctive Pietra di Bismantova, a tabular sandstone massif that dominates the town of Castelnuovo ne' Monti in the province of Reggio Emilia. This historic via ferrata is particularly well-suited to the shoulder seasons and offers a varied, rewarding itinerary that is often combined with other ferrate to create a complete loop. Access is made easy by the convenient parking at Piazzale Dante, located at the base of this imposing rock formation.

Approach

Access to the via ferrata begins from Piazzale Dante. From here, climb the staircase toward the Rifugio della Pietra. After a few meters, a CAI sign on the right points the way to the Ferrata degli Alpini. The approach trail, which takes about 10 minutes, skirts the high sandstone walls frequented by rock climbers. The environment is characterized by massive, compact slabs. You then enter a rocky recess and, after crossing a few slightly exposed grassy ledges, reach the start of the first equipped section in about 15 minutes total from the departure point. Given the tight space near the route, it is advisable to put on your harness already at the parking lot or during the approach.

Via Ferrata

The itinerary is divided into two distinct sections, each with its own character and rhythm. The first section is an up-and-down traverse that includes two of the three key passages on the route. It begins with a pleasant, low-angle wall, ideal for getting a feel for the rock. After reaching a small ledge and rounding an edge, you enter a descent gully of about 10 meters, one of the highlights of the via ferrata. The rappel, made easier by excellent anchors and a safety rubber cone installed in 2019, requires a steady foot and a head for heights. This passage introduces a discontinuous rhythm, alternating horizontal traverses with short but demanding changes in elevation. After completing this section (15 minutes from the start), you reach a cave from which you descend after carefully assessing the passage. Exiting the cave, follow a marked trail that skirts some scree slopes and leads to the start of the second section in about 30 minutes total. Shortly before the start, a sign marks the turnoff for the new Ferrata Orto del Mandorlo.

The second section is characterized by pronounced verticality, made pleasant and logical by excellent equipment. The start, about three meters high, requires a couple of easy free-climbing moves (grade II). You quickly tackle two dihedrals that allow you to gain elevation smoothly. Here the progression becomes more continuous and physical, with constant exposure that rewards you with expansive views. Midway, a rest point offers a splendid view of Monte Cusna and, further to the left, Monte Cimone. Setting off again, you traverse a diagonal wall with the cable as a handrail, then tackle a short, well-stapled vertical wall that leads to a ledge. Here you encounter the third key passage: a very airy and exposed arete that leads onto a narrow, sloping ledge. This is the most technical and spectacular moment, where the route truly develops along the ridge. At this point, pay attention when clipping your carabiner, as the cable is very close to the rock. After crossing the ledge, you enter the final section, where a last, equally airy but perfectly equipped dihedral leads to the final 15 meters of ascent. You finally reach an exposed ladder that brings you to the end of the via ferrata, reached about 1 hour from the start of the second section.

Descent

Three options are available for returning to Piazzale Dante. The first and most direct involves following the wide trail that crosses the plateau of the Pietra di Bismantova and then descending on the main path, taking about 30 minutes. The second variant, of the same duration, starts to the left, cutting across the plateau toward the south face, then descends with a couple of moves on rock slabs toward the climbing routes and finally to the parking lot. The third option, ideal for enthusiasts, is the descent along the Ferrata Ovest (or dell'Ultimo Sole), inaugurated in 2017 and of easy difficulty. To reach its start, follow the main trail toward the west face, locating the anchor tree for the final cable. The descent, initially vertical, requires attention; in 15 minutes you reach a ledge that, in another 15 minutes, leads to the start of the Ferrata Ovest, from which a comfortable trail returns to Piazzale Dante in about 1 hour total from the end of the Ferrata degli Alpini.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata degli Alpini alla Pietra di Bismantova is a historic itinerary, installed in 1971, renovated in 1983, and with the cable also replaced in 2018. It is advisable not to remove your helmet until you reach the Rifugio della Pietra due to the risk of falling rocks. In June 2018, maintenance work was carried out in the first sector, near the descent section. The route lends itself to being combined into a loop of about 3 hours with the descent of the Ferrata Ovest, offering great variety of passages. In the same area, other ferrate are accessible, such as the Ferrata Orto del Mandorlo, while nearby you will find the Ferrata Balze del Malpasso, the Ferrata Monte Penna, and the Ferrata Barranco del Dolo.