Ferrata Monte Penna

Overview

The Penna di Civago, a rocky sandstone spire that dominates the last village in the Reggio Emilia province before the Passo delle Radici, commands attention with its sharp profile and walls that rise steeply to 1,400 meters. On this bold formation, a short but notably demanding via ferrata has been laid out, combining verticality and exposure in an intense itinerary.

Approach

The route begins at Case di Civago, reachable in about an hour and a half by car from Reggio Emilia or Modena. After parking your vehicle along the wide spaces of the dirt road leading to the Battisti, Segheria, and Bargetana refuges, continue on foot for about five minutes, keeping the Penna on your right. An information sign marks the start of a steep track, indicated by cairns and white trail markers. The ascent initially develops over a scree slope, then tackles steep slopes and an exposed traverse that leads to the start of the via ferrata, reachable in about thirty minutes from the parking area. The approach, though brief, already introduces the character of the environment: steep slopes and a morphology that foreshadows the climbing ahead.

Via Ferrata

The itinerary immediately asserts itself with its pronounced verticality. The sandstone rock, compact and with few natural holds, demands near-total reliance on the metal anchors, skillfully arranged as rungs, handles, and stirrups. The first section of the Ferrata del Monte Penna unfolds through two dihedrals, overcomes a very exposed arete, and continues with a challenging chimney, offering continuous and physically engaging progression. Once this section is finished, a short grassy path allows for a pause before the second and more difficult part.

The second section begins with a vertical, slightly overhanging wall of about ten meters, where the metal fixtures are essential for a passage of sustained difficulty. Beyond this wall, a small ledge offers a moment of respite before the crux of the entire route: an overhanging bulge on an eight-meter face. Well-equipped, this section nonetheless demands maximum caution and quick execution to avoid excessive muscle fatigue; it is advisable to study the sequence of holds carefully before committing to the move. The rhythm here changes: from continuous vertical progression, you shift to a more technical and deliberate movement, in a context of strong exposure.

Once past the overhang, you tackle a final sandstone slab, very exposed, where a few stirrups aid the ascent. The smooth nature of the rock, however, makes it difficult to avoid pulling on the safety cable in at least a couple of spots, adding an element of technical challenge. After this slab, the difficulties ease off noticeably. In about five minutes, you overcome a last small wall and an exposed but straightforward ledge, marking the end of the via ferrata. From here, you enjoy an exceptional panorama over Civago, Lake Fontanaluccia, and Monte Giovarello. The climbing time for the via ferrata is about one hour, for a total of one hour and thirty minutes from the start. The experience is thus concentrated: a succession of challenging passages, with few breaks, requiring endurance and technique.

Descent

From the end of the via ferrata, you need to continue uphill for another five minutes on a steep path until you intercept a CAI trail. For the return to Case di Civago, you have two options. The recommended route is to proceed left, following the CAI 631 A trail towards Cavallina. This path is less steep and slippery than the alternative CAI 607 trail and, in about forty minutes, leads back to the parking area. From the 631 A, you descend until you join the CAI 605, which you take to the left. For anyone needing water, a fountain is reachable by deviating right on the 605 trail for five minutes. The 605 is ultimately a comfortable mule track that ends at the starting dirt road. The total time for the excursion, including the via ferrata and descent, is about two hours and thirty minutes. The descent, therefore, offers a more relaxed pace after the intensity of the climb, traversing a wooded environment and well-marked trails.

Useful Notes

Despite its brevity, this via ferrata is athletic and demanding. A couple of passages can seriously challenge inexperienced or poorly trained hikers. A peculiar characteristic is that the difficulties tend to increase progressively after the start, leaving few opportunities to retreat and turn back, which accentuates its nature of continuous commitment. In the summer of 2018, two additional stirrups were added at the overhanging crux passage, significantly reducing its original difficulty. The Ferrata della Penna di Civago was inaugurated in October 2014. For enthusiasts, the nearby Ferrata Barranco del Dolo, just 4 km away, represents an ideal continuation of the day, allowing you to make the most of an outing in an area rich in alpine offerings.