Ferrata Ovest o dell'Ultimo Sole

Overview

The Pietra di Bismantova is an imposing and singular table-shaped formation that defines the landscape of the Reggiano Apennines. This destination is extremely popular among climbers from Emilia, thanks to the presence of over eighty routes, both single-pitch sport climbs and longer multi-pitch lines. Since 2017, a second, easy via ferrata has been equipped on its western wall, known as the Ferrata Ovest or the Ferrata dell'Ultimo Sole (Ferrata of the Last Sun).

Approach

The starting point is Piazzale Dante in Castelnuovo ne' Monti, in the province of Reggio Emilia. To reach it, take the SS63 del Cerreto highway; once in town, follow the numerous signs for the Pietra di Bismantova. The square offers ample parking, though it can prove insufficient during the summer season. From the parking area, climb the staircase, reach and skirt the Rifugio della Pietra, then take the main trail marked CAI 697, which leads to the summit plateau. The trail runs at the base of imposing vertical walls, often busy with climbers. The setting is dominated by the limestone mass of the Pietra, rising like an isolated bastion. In about twenty minutes you reach a well-marked junction, where a left-hand detour leads, after a few meters of descent, to the start of the Ferrata Ovest.

Via Ferrata

The route is divided into two distinct sections, each with its own character and demands. The first section unfolds along a long horizontal ledge, characterized by easy ups and downs. The path winds across a gently sloping rock band, where the steel cable often serves as little more than a handrail, making this stretch perfect for getting comfortable with progression and ideal for newcomers and beginners. At the end of this first part, which takes about fifteen minutes, you can choose to turn back.

The second part is more vertical, interesting, and fun. The pace changes markedly: you leave the comfortable ledge to tackle a fairly vertical slab. The moves, while not technically difficult, demand greater attention and concentration due to the increased exposure. The wall, made of compact limestone, is well equipped with holds and stirrups. After climbing the slab, you follow an easy traverse and then a ramp; at the end, a short two-meter descent leads to the summit register. The final climbing stretch consists of a sloping ledge and one last step, where the modest difficulties are easily overcome thanks to the presence of holds and rock steps. In a few paces you reach the end of the ferrata, for a total climbing time of about thirty minutes from the start. The experience is pleasantly varied, alternating airy sections with calmer moments, all while enjoying constant panoramic views of the valley below.

Descent

From the end of the ferrata, continue straight across the summit meadows to join trail CAI 697. Turning right, the trail descends directly toward Piazzale Dante, a walk of about twenty minutes. A more scenic alternative is to head left, following the broad path that skirts the meadows to get a close-up view of the final wall of the more famous Ferrata degli Alpini, which climbs the eastern side. In ten minutes you reach a panoramic viewpoint from which the line of the Ferrata Ovest is clearly visible, offering an overall perspective on the route you have just completed.

Useful Notes

This is an easy via ferrata, perfect for a first introduction to this type of equipped route. For those with solid experience, it can also be descended, perhaps after tackling the more challenging Ferrata degli Alpini. During the return, it is strongly recommended not to remove your helmet until you reach the Rifugio della Pietra, due to the not-insignificant risk of falling rocks from the cliff above. The Ferrata dell'Ultimo Sole was inaugurated in 2017 by the CAI of Castelnovo Monti and installed by the guides of La Pietra. On the same massif you can find other linked ferratas, such as the Ferrata degli Alpini and the Ferrata Orto del Mandorlo.