Orto del Mandorlo

Overview

The Ferrata Orto del Mandorlo climbs the famous Pietra di Bismantova, an imposing sandstone bastion that towers over Castelnuovo ne' Monti in the province of Reggio Emilia. This recently inaugurated via ferrata offers a technical and rewarding ascent in a morphologically unique setting, partially retracing the line of a historic rock climb. It shares the first part of the route, including an equipped section, with the more traditional Ferrata degli Alpini.

Approach

The route starts from Piazzale Dante, a large square at the foot of the rock formation. To reach it, follow signs for the Pietra di Bismantova from Castelnuovo ne' Monti. Parking is spacious, but on busy weekends in high season you may need to park along the access road.

From the square, climb the staircase heading toward the Rifugio della Pietra. After a few meters, a CAI sign on the right points the way to the ferratas. Continue for about ten minutes, skirting the majestic walls frequented by climbers, until you enter a rocky cleft. The setting is dominated by high vertical walls that unfold across ledges and small terraces. After crossing some slightly exposed grassy sections, you reach the first equipped stretch about fifteen minutes from the start. Given the tight spaces at the beginning, it's advisable to put on your harness already at the parking lot or during the approach.

Via Ferrata

The first section is shared with the Ferrata degli Alpini. It begins with a pleasant slab of sandstone, then reaches a small terrace. After rounding a corner, you enter a descent channel about ten meters long-a key passage that requires a steady foot and no fear of heights, made easier by excellent anchors. This stretch introduces a discontinuous rhythm, alternating short climbs with horizontal or slightly descending moves. Once past this, you access a cave; the descent through it needs careful assessment but turns out to be straightforward. Exiting the cave, a trail marked with white-red paint skirts some scree slopes and leads, about thirty minutes from the initial start, to the beginning of the second section of the Ferrata degli Alpini.

At this junction, instead of climbing, follow a CAI sign reading "Sentiero" to the right, heading toward a prominent boulder field. Looking up, you can spot the wall of the Orto del Mandorlo and the blue sign marking its start. Traverse the boulder field on a mid-slope path, then after a few meters of ascent, leave it to follow a faint track that cuts across the base of the wall for a few minutes, until you reach the ferrata's starting sign, about forty minutes from the parking lot.

The Ferrata Orto del Mandorlo begins by tackling the wall's lower section. The first meters on mixed, grassy, and unstable ground require maximum attention to avoid dislodging debris. The climb proceeds diagonally to the right until a root, where a short overhanging step leads to a slab. Ascend with friction moves on sloping rock, taking care not to slip on dirt and sand. You then reach a steeper little wall, progressing with friction using abundant natural footholds. A short traverse to the right and a small slab bring you to the end of the lower section.

Next, follow a grassy ledge that traverses horizontally to the left, double around a corner by climbing a small gully, then traverse left again in a slight descent to a pillar. This pillar is the most interesting section: move left in an exposed position to a comfortable metal step, from which begins a slightly overhanging climb, well-equipped with artificial holds on the right and natural ones on the left. The passage is beautiful and exposed, offering a moment of more technical and airy vertical progression. Exit the pillar on the right by stepping over a root, and you arrive at a small earthy terrace.

Continue on a diagonal slab to a slightly overhanging section. A traverse to the left-not difficult but requiring decisive movement-leads to the summit slab. This final stretch, on good-quality sloping rock, allows you to climb with friction, seeking out natural holds. The character of the route here becomes more physical and continuous, with fine progression on compact rock. After climbing about fifteen meters, you reach the end of the fixed equipment on the summit plateau, about thirty minutes from the ferrata's start (roughly one hour total from the parking lot).

Descent

Three options are possible for returning to Piazzale Dante.

1. The most direct: from the end of the ferrata, follow a faint track to the left that leads in a couple of minutes to a wide path. This path, first straight then veering right, crosses the plateau and descends along the main access trail to the Pietra di Bismantova, reaching the parking lot in about thirty minutes.
2. A more rugged variant: once on the wide path, turn left uphill, cross the plateau toward the south face, and via a couple of easy rock steps, return to the base of the climbing routes, then descend to the square, also in about half an hour.
3. For enthusiasts, it's possible to descend via the Ferrata Ovest or dell'Ultimo Sole. Reach its start by following the main path toward the west face; the descent is doable (it's an easy-grade ferrata) but requires caution on the first vertical meters. In about an hour from the end of the Ferrata Orto del Mandorlo, you'll be back at the parking lot.

Useful Notes

The route presents variable difficulty. The sections shared with the Ferrata degli Alpini in descent are considered moderately difficult, especially the channel and the cave. The ascent of the Orto del Mandorlo is mostly easy, with two passages classifiable as moderately difficult. Overall, the nearby Ferrata degli Alpini is slightly more challenging and exposed.

This is a recent route that traverses a sector, the Orto del Mandorlo, historically known for rock that isn't always of the highest quality. The ground is often earthy, and despite careful safety work, it is essential to pay maximum attention to avoid dislodging stones, which could fall onto the approach trail or the early sections. Wearing a helmet is mandatory. It is strongly discouraged to descend the ferrata due to the risk of sending debris onto any climbers below.

Installed in autumn 2023 by the Guide della Pietra, the ferrata partially retraces the old "Via del Campo," a bold solo ascent now re-equipped and made accessible. The three ferratas of the Pietra di Bismantova can be combined into a long and satisfying loop.