Ferrata della Vecia

Overview

The Ferrata della Vecia is a vertically oriented equipped route, distinguished by an abundant provision of stemples that facilitate progression. Situated in the central sector of the Pale di San Martino, it typically serves as a connecting link within the mountaineering circuits that revolve around Forcella del Porton. The itinerary presented here, of considerable commitment, traces a complete loop starting and ending at San Martino di Castrozza. It involves ascending the Ferrata della Vecia, then linking via the Sentiero Attrezzato Gusella to Forcella Stephen, and returning through Passo di Ball.

Approach

Access to the route begins in San Martino di Castrozza, along the road to Hotel Maso Col. Just before the building, on the right-hand side, there is a wooden information board marking the start of trail 721; it is advisable to park nearby. The path first winds through wide grazing meadows, then plunges into dense forest. It is essential to stay consistently on trail 721 heading for Rifugio del Velo, ignoring any turnoffs toward Malga Civerteghe. After crossing a streambed, the gradient increases and the path proceeds in a traverse along the mountainside, skirting the imposing rock walls of the cirque. After about two hours of walking, you emerge from the tree cover; after a short stretch over loose scree, you reach on the left the obvious turnoff leading to the start of the Ferrata della Vecia.

The approach offers a gradual immersion into the Dolomitic environment, alternating airy sections with more enclosed passages through the forest. The progression is steady but not excessively steep, allowing for an adequate physical warm-up before the real technical challenge. The terrain's morphology changes noticeably as you near the base of the ferrata, where pastures give way to scree slopes dominated by high walls.

Via Ferrata

The start of the ferrata presents itself with a series of vertical slabs, densely equipped with stemples and stirrups that allow for safe progression despite the immediate exposure. You execute an easy traverse to the right to gain height, then turn decisively left along a marked rocky ramp. You then tackle another wall of similar conformation, followed by a horizontal traverse on excellent holds. This brings you to the base of the final two slabs, which are overcome without difficulty, concluding on easy rock ledges. The actual equipped section lasts about twenty minutes.

The ferrata unfolds entirely on solid, compact rock, typical of the Dolomites, offering a vertical style of climbing made fluid by the equipment. The pace is sustained and continuous, with no forced stops, characterized by short vertical sections alternating with more horizontal passages that allow you to catch your breath. The exposure is constant, and the panorama gradually opens up toward the valley below.

You then emerge onto trail 739B, which climbs steeply and well-marked toward the obvious Forcella del Porton. Just before the notch, you encounter an unmarked fork: to the right, you can opt for a quicker return toward the Ferrata del Velo and its refuge, while the itinerary continues left uphill. In a few minutes, you reach another fork, right below Forcella del Porton. Here, you take the Sentiero Attrezzato Gusella to the left, which in about an hour and a half, passing beneath the majestic Cima Ball, leads to Forcella Stephen.

This connecting section is an alpine trail that develops mainly on ledges and gullies, maintaining a high altitude. The route is technically less demanding than the ferrata but requires attention due to exposure and some passages on unstable terrain. It offers a rhythmic, panoramic progression with continuous views of the Pale group.

Descent

From Forcella Stephen, the highest point of the itinerary, the long descent begins. The first stage is Passo di Ball, reachable in about three-quarters of an hour via steep equipped sections. From the pass, ignoring the turnoff to Rifugio Pradidali on the right, you continue left, descending into the vast and impressive valley enclosed between Pala di San Martino and Cima Val di Roda. This sector features some exposed ledges, protected by steel cables. You traverse the entire valley until a marked fork: continuing straight leads toward Rifugio Pedrotti and the cable car, while you take trail 702 to the left. This, in a steep descent, finally leads back to the starting road near San Martino di Castrozza, completing the loop.

The descent is the longest and most physically demanding phase of the entire circuit. The first stretch from the notch to Passo di Ball is technical and requires concentration. The subsequent descent into the valley is instead characterized by a more monotonous, continuous rhythm over scree and steep trail, with brief interruptions on the equipped passages of the ledges. The environment is grand and severe, dominated by the high walls that surround the gully.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata della Vecia, considered on its own, is primarily a connecting route and finds its maximum logic when integrated into broader circuits like the one proposed, which is very coherent. It is essential to exercise maximum caution regarding the danger of falling rocks given the route's verticality, and to be prudent when encountering any hikers descending. For cartography, a detailed map of the Parco Naturale Paneveggio e Pale di San Martino is recommended. The ferrata lends itself well to being combined, in one- or multi-day itineraries, with other classic equipped routes in the group, such as the Ferrata del Porton, the Ferrata del Velo, the Bolver Lugli, or the Gabitta d'Ignoti.

The itinerary as a whole is predominantly alpine in character, combining a short but intense climbing section with a long high-altitude traverse. The panoramic component is exceptional and constant, while the physical commitment is significant, especially in the long final descent. The coherence of the circuit lies in the variety of environments traversed: from the vertical ferrata, to the ledges of the Gusella, to the return gully.