Ferrata Stella Alpina all'Agner

Overview

This report describes the ascent of Monte Agner via the Ferrata Stella Alpina, a highly rewarding but demanding route requiring over ten hours of activity. It is reserved for experienced hikers with excellent physical fitness and technical skills for progression on via ferrata and in alpine terrain. Maximum attention must be paid to the route after the end of the equipped path, where significant objective difficulties are encountered.

Approach

The route begins from the locality of Frassanè, in the province of Belluno. From the village center, take Via della Vittoria heading west, turning left after a few meters onto Via Domadore. Follow this road for a few hundred meters to a fork with CAI trail markers: trail 771 continues to the right, trail 772 to the left. Here there is a small parking area for 4-5 cars (1182 m).

From the parking area, ascend following trail marker 771 toward Rifugio Scarpa. The itinerary initially develops along a forest road that intersects the remains of a disused chairlift, with a constant but steady gradient. After leaving the woods, climb decisively through the meadows along the former ski slopes until reaching Rifugio Scarpa (1735 m) in about one hour.

From the refuge, an excellent base, follow the signs for the Ferrata Stella Alpina and the Sentiero Miniussi. Pass by Malga Losch and, while the Miniussi continues straight, keep left, exiting the woods (15 minutes from the refuge). Approaching the imposing walls of the mountain, you reach a crucial junction. Ahead looms the snowfield of the gully descending from Forcella Pizzon (the return route), while to the left the path to the ferrata start begins. A sign indicates the deviation. Follow the track to the left, marked by yellow and red blazes, overcoming a few small rock steps. You encounter a stone with a red arrow indicating the crossing of a channel, up to the rhomboid sign marking the start of the Ferrata Stella Alpina (1955 m), reached in about 1 hour and 45 minutes from the parking area.

Via Ferrata

The first equipped section overcomes a rocky outcrop. Initially climb vertically on good holds, then angle to the right, ascending some rock steps to move left. Then traverse a connecting section on gravel, grass, and then rock, following the prominent yellow blazes. At the end of this section, resume the cables near a sign warning not to dislodge stones.

The second and more demanding section begins. After a few diagonal meters, the cable becomes vertical on a wall with holds that are not immediately obvious. After overcoming this athletic section, move to the right with a traverse that leads to a chimney, the first of a series. Ascend it using a stem technique, utilizing holds on both walls and some rungs, exiting on the left side.

Then proceed with another traverse to the right toward a narrow gorge. Enter the gorge keeping to the right, being careful with bulky backpacks. From the base, climb on the left side to exit this technical passage. Immediately after begins a series of vertical and exposed passages, with the return gully appearing behind you. It is advisable to search carefully for footholds to avoid excessive fatigue.

The final section develops to the left with an airy traverse leading to a panoramic spur overlooking Rifugio Scarpa. Climb a vertical wall up to a delicate passage: the cable continues vertically along a slightly overhanging crack. The start is challenging; it is best to look for a foothold on the left to gain the exit. Ascending the crack requires agility to find holds on both sides. After overcoming this point, the cable bends to the right, leading to the key passage of the route: a vertical and smooth slab to be tackled using the few natural holds (a crack) and the metal rungs. With the final exposed meters, you finally reach the formations called "Le Laste" (2320 m). The actual ferrata takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes, for a total of 3 hours and 30 minutes from the start of the hike.

From here begins the long traverse of the Laste dell'Agner toward the Bivacco Biasin. The path, initially on stones and grass, becomes increasingly rocky and exposed. The route is not trivial and becomes prohibitive in fog. Follow often faded marks and cairns. You encounter rock steps to be climbed free and some short equipped sections on slabs and ledges. The traverse is generally exposed and strongly discouraged on wet rock. After overcoming all the Laste, ascend the final equipped sections below the bivouac to reach Forcella Pizzon and the Bivacco Biasin (2645 m), in about 1 hour and 45 minutes from Le Laste (5h 15' total).

For the final ascent to Agner, bypass the south-western wall from the fork, ascending a series of equipped sections. Traverse a particularly exposed and adrenaline-pumping equipped ledge, then exit onto an airy but not difficult ramp. Following the track in steep ascent, you finally reach the anticima with the summit cross of Monte Agner (2872 m), reached in about one hour from the bivouac (6h 15' total).

Descent

The descent is also very demanding and must be carefully planned. From the summit of Agner, retrace your steps back toward Forcella Pizzon, paying maximum attention on the section between the summit and the equipped ledge, where the marks are scarce and faded. It is useful to have memorized the route during the ascent. After descending the equipped sections, return to the Bivacco Biasin in about 45 minutes from the summit (7h total).

From the bivouac, undertake the steep descent keeping to the left side of the gully, staying high relative to the bottom. The terrain is slippery. After about 200 meters of descent (20-30 minutes), you encounter a fork with faded writings on the rock: to the right descends the path along the gully (red marks), to the left the normal route (yellow marks). This report describes the challenging descent via the gully. Descend via steep switchbacks on gravelly and unstable ground. The use of trekking poles is highly recommended. The lower part of the gully is often occupied by a snowfield. After exiting the gully, with Rifugio Scarpa in front, follow the indications on a stone to rejoin the outward path, with the fork for the ferrata start to your right (1820 m). This section takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the bivouac (8h 30' total).

From here, retrace the approach path: reach Rifugio Scarpa in 15 minutes and descend to the parking area along trail 771 in about 1 hour and 15 minutes, for a total hike time of about 10 hours.

Useful Notes

The overall difficulty of this itinerary is among the highest in the Italian panorama of equipped routes. To the ferrata, classifiable as "Very Difficult", are added the objective difficulties of the traverse of Le Laste, the ascent of Agner, and the descent from the gully, in addition to the considerable length of the approach and return. It is strongly recommended to split the hike over two days. Weather conditions are decisive: fog or rain make both Le Laste and the descent extremely dangerous. Residual snow is often present in the gully, so it may be prudent to carry crampons. This is an ascent to be undertaken only in excellent physical condition and with stable weather forecasts.