Ferrata Innerkofler al Paterno

Overview

The Ferrata De Luca - Innerkofler is a moderately difficult equipped route that culminates on the summit of Monte Paterno, in the heart of the Sexten Dolomites. The actual ascent is compact and features no sections of high technical difficulty, while the descent can demand greater concentration if you opt for the route passing through Forcella Passaporto. The itinerary offers exceptional panoramas and touches on significant historical remains linked to operations from the First World War, unfolding in a classic Dolomitic environment.

The starting point is the Rifugio Auronzo (2320 m), reachable by car from Misurina via a 7 km panoramic toll road. Misurina is connected to Cortina d'Ampezzo, Auronzo di Cadore, and the Val Pusteria via the SR48 and SP49.

Approach

The initial goal is to reach the base of the Torre di Toblin. From the parking lot at Rifugio Auronzo, take the wide, panoramic trail marked 101, which leads to Rifugio Lavaredo (2344 m) in about half an hour. Continuing with a steeper gradient, you gain Forcella Lavaredo (2454 m) in another 15 minutes. From this pass, you enjoy a complete view of the Croda di Passaporto, Monte Paterno, the Sasso di Sesto, and the Torre di Toblin; descending a few meters, the Tre Cime di Lavaredo appear in all their splendor.

Continue descending along trail 101, ignoring the various branches to the left, until you reach Rifugio Locatelli (2450 m), an important hiking hub in the Sexten Dolomites. The total time from the start is about 1 hour and 15 minutes. From the refuge, follow the signs for southeast, turning right toward the imposing north face of the Paterno. Pass the characteristic pinnacle of the Frankfurter Wurstl and continue climbing.

You then encounter a first war tunnel, quite low but illuminated by some holes in the rock. Cross it, climbing a few internal steps, to emerge onto an artificial balcony that allows you to switch sides. Here you access a second tunnel, over 300 meters long and equipped with staircases, for which a headlamp is essential. At the exit on the opposite side, a metal plaque marks the start of the Ferrata Innerkofler to the Paterno at Forcella del Camoscio (2650 m). This approach section from Rifugio Locatelli takes about 30 minutes, for a total of 1 hour and 45 minutes from the parking lot.

This first section is an approach of great environmental impact, unfolding over moraines and debris slopes dominated by the bulk of the Paterno. The tunnels, carved into compact dolomite, represent a historical and speleological introduction, preparing you for the vertical experience to come.

Via Ferrata

The start of the equipped route is near an exposed edge. After a short horizontal section, the cable rises vertically up a small wall with good holds, followed by a passage over unroped rock that you ascend to the right. You then bend left uphill to enter a trench, which you follow like a ramp, gaining altitude quickly.

You arrive below a stepped rock ledge about ten meters high. Climb it, moving progressively outward to surmount the edge in notable exposure, with the cable running right along the crest. Turn right and tackle a small gully with a debris floor, staying on the right side, which allows you to gain altitude quickly. You thus reach Forcella dei Camosci, a trail crossroads offering several options for continuing (30 minutes from the start, 2 hours and 45 minutes total).

The pace is sustained and continuous, with a progression that is more physical than technical. The ferrata alternates short vertical rises on solid rock with sections of free climbing on slabs and gullies, maintaining a predominantly vertical and panoramic character, with views that progressively open up over the Tre Cime group.

For the final ascent to the summit, after losing a couple of meters in a slight descent, you encounter a fork with two equipped routes, right and left. To avoid congestion, it is recommended to take the right one. Follow the cable that climbs diagonally to the left on well-stepped rock, then continue vertically on climbable slabs with excellent holds. After a few meters, you reach an unroped ledge, which you traverse to the left without particular difficulty, following the tracks. Shortly, you spot and reach the summit cross of Monte Paterno (2744 m) in about 20 minutes from the fork, for a total of about 3 hours.

From the summit, descend along the trail to the left to return to the fork near Forcella dei Camosci. Retrace the summit plateau until you find the cable descending on the eastern side. Tackle two stepped vertical sections, separated by an exposed ledge with a breathtaking panorama. You return to the outward fork in about 20 minutes from the summit (total about 3 hours and 30 minutes) and are soon back at Forcella dei Camosci, from where to evaluate the return itinerary.

Descent

From Forcella dei Camosci, there are two possible return options.

The first option, shorter, involves returning to Forcella Lavaredo via the Sentiero Attrezzato di Forcella Passaporto (2379 m). This route features some exposed passages and is more difficult than the alternative. In particular, after an equipped ledge, you must descend a few meters and cross an unroped, debris-filled gully, then climb the opposite side before entering a tunnel. A second challenging point is a particularly narrow, unroped ledge. Apart from these two passages, the rest of the route is partly equipped but not difficult, and unfolds in a magnificent landscape setting. After passing Forcella Passaporto, descend through several tunnels with the Tre Cime di Lavaredo always in front, until reaching Forcella Lavaredo (about 1 hour from Forcella dei Camosci, total 4 hours and 30 minutes). From here, return to the parking lot via the outward trail 101 (total about 5 hours).

This return itinerary has a more technical character and requires constant attention. The route winds along ledges and debris gullies on the southern side of the Paterno, offering a close-up and spectacular perspective on the north faces of the Tre Cime.

The second option is to take the Sentiero Attrezzato delle Forcelle, which runs just below the ridge between Monte Paterno and Forcella dei Pian di Cengia (2522 m). This trail is characterized by a long succession of ledges, partly equipped, with bridges and numerous remains from the Great War. With continuous ups and downs, you reach Forcella Pian de Cengia, from where a short detour to the north allows you to visit Rifugio Pian de Cengia (2528 m). The return continues following trail 107 south and then trail 104 to Forcella Lavaredo (about 1 hour from the refuge, total 6 hours and 30 minutes). From Forcella Lavaredo, return to the parking lot via the outward trail (total about 7 hours).

This alternative route is technically less demanding but longer and more varied. The pace is set by a succession of ups and downs on panoramic ledges, in a historically evocative environment, ideal for those who are not in a hurry and want to extend their time at altitude.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Innerkofler is a pleasant, moderately difficult itinerary that combines enjoyable climbing with extraordinary panoramas and history. Pay attention to the gully before Forcella dei Camosci, which can hold snow or ice even late in the season. A headlamp is necessary for traversing the Galleria Paterno and, possibly, a tunnel along the return via Forcella Passaporto. The return via Passaporto requires a steady foot and a good dose of attention. For cartography, a detailed map of the Sexten Dolomites group is recommended.