Ferrata Olivieri a Punta Anna

Overview

The Ferrata Olivieri is a demanding and rewarding equipped route that takes alpinists to Punta Anna in the Tofane massif. Starting from Rifugio Pomedes, it unfolds across compact dolomite slabs and ridges, offering continuous, exposed climbing in an alpine setting of exceptional scenic impact.

Approach

The route begins from Baita Pie di Tofana, above Cortina d'Ampezzo. To reach Rifugio Pomedes (2303 m), you can take the convenient chairlift. Alternatively, trail 405 leads first to Rifugio Duca d'Aosta and then, via a gravel road, to the Pomedes in about 2 hours. Even during this approach, the silhouette of Punta Anna dominates the panorama with its south face. Another option, useful for certain return circuits, is to start from Rifugio Dibona, connecting to the Pomedes via trail 421 in 45 minutes. From the hut, following the signs behind the top station of the chairlift, you take a steep path that climbs rapidly over grassy slopes and then a scree slope, heading toward a saddle. Here, at 2440 meters after about 30 minutes of walking, you find the starting plaque of the Ferrata Olivieri.

Via Ferrata

The start immediately reveals the route's character: a vertical wall about twenty meters high, with few rungs but excellent natural holds, which in its upper section bends slightly to the right. After overcoming this first step, the route makes a short, slightly descending traverse, followed by an exposed traverse with good footholds, then climbs some small slabs to the right. A comfortable ledge to the left allows you to bypass a corner and tackle another vertical step that leads to a panoramic terrace, with exceptional views of the Tofana di Rozes and its imposing south face. You continue on easy slabs to a notch, where the cables temporarily stop. An easy path allows you to cross, revealing the majestic bulk of the Tofana di Mezzo. You then reattach to a very exposed ridge, made climbable by excellent, jagged rock. You initially stay on the right side of the crest line, gaining height quickly. After a couple of slightly narrow passages, you reach a wider balcony with a splendid panorama of the Averau and Nuvolau. You set off again, overcoming a wall about 4 meters high, slightly overhanging, with few holds, where the cable is essential. This is the final section of the ridge, very exposed and sharp, which bends left toward a prominent rock pulpit. A non-trivial traverse to the left introduces a wall where the cable zigzags, using the easiest points on the rock. The climb continues in constant exposure, with passages of medium difficulty but always on well-holded rock. Reaching a gully, you traverse without issue to the left, then climb diagonally over small rocks and tackle a fairly demanding vertical wall. After bypassing a corner, the cables stop at a panoramic point above 2700 meters, with Cortina d'Ampezzo far below. A high-altitude path, only partially equipped, leads to a junction: to the left, the equipped path for Rifugio Giussani begins. Keeping right, you continue following the red markers toward Dos de Tofana. The equipped path leads to a notch where you overcome a smooth slab using friction and a short but challenging narrow dihedral. The final section is a ledge, first horizontal then steeper (with some stirrups), which returns to horizontal and ends at Dos de Tofana (2850 m). The climbing time from the start is about 1 hour and 30 minutes (2 hours from Rifugio Pomedes).

Descent

Three different return options are possible:

1. From Dos de Tofana, the path descends steeply toward Rifugio Ra Vales, then enters a valley. At a junction at 2580 m, keeping right, you take the Sentiero Attrezzato Olivieri which returns to Rifugio Pomedes (about 2h 15' from the end of the ferrata; 4h 30' total from the Pomedes).
2. Continuing left from the same junction, you take the path that, via the Ferrata Aglio, leads to the Tofana di Mezzo and the top station of the cable car (about 3h from the end of the ferrata; 5h 30' total). By cable car, you descend to the intermediate station of Col Druscè, from where trail 413 returns to the parking lot in 10 minutes.
3. From the junction for Rifugio Giussani encountered before the end of the ferrata, you descend via a path that is partially equipped and exposed (but not difficult) to the hut (about 1h; 3h total from the Pomedes). From here, the busy trail 403 returns to Rifugio Dibona, where it is advisable to park if you choose this option.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata Olivieri is an exposed and intense route, of medium-high difficulty, with some more challenging passages that, combined with the high-altitude environment, make it a serious but not prohibitive ascent for experienced hikers. The rock is excellent, jagged, and very climbable. The cable is thick and generally well-tensioned, offering solid support during the climb. The route is often combined with the Ferrata Aglio on the Tofana di Mezzo or the Sentiero Attrezzato Olivieri for a loop. From the area of Rifugio Giussani, you can also consider the Ferrata Scala del Menighel or the Sentiero Attrezzato Astaldi as alternative descents. The route is dedicated to Giuseppe Olivieri, a Venetian alpinist, and was built and inaugurated in 1972 by mountain guide Luigi Ghedina.