Ferrata Renè de Pol al Forame

Overview

The Renè De Pol Via Ferrata is a moderately difficult alpine route that culminates on the summit of Punta Ovest del Forame, in the central sector of the Cristallo Group. It is a relatively short via ferrata set within a broad and historically significant hiking context, marked by numerous remnants of the Great War. The equipped route features a single significant technical passage inside a chimney; however, the hiker's attention must focus on the long and complex descent. This includes an initial ridge section, between Forcella Gialla and Forcella Verde, which demands caution, good balance, and should not be underestimated for its exposure and terrain.

Approach

The recommended starting point is Passo di Cimabianche, along the main road between Dobbiaco and Cortina d'Ampezzo. From the pass, descend on the left side of the road and take the obvious trail 208. The route, with a moderate gradient, follows a stream keeping it on the right. Upon reaching the Pian del Forame area (1495 m, about 30 minutes from the pass), you will find signs that branch left for the via ferrata. Continue decisively eastward, tackling a steep and steady climb through the woods that, at a brisk pace, leads back to Pian del Forame and a marked junction. Keep left for the via ferrata, ignoring the trail ahead that, before a 2017 landslide, served as a descent variant. The ascent continues north, climbing a physically demanding, debris-filled gully where you encounter several military shelters from World War I. After ascending a ledge, you finally reach the start of the De Pol Ferrata (1945 m), reached in about 2 hours and 30 minutes total from Passo di Cimabianche. The approach is therefore a complete hiking itinerary in itself, preparing you physically and providing historical context for the climb ahead.

Via Ferrata

The equipped route begins with a short traverse to the left on solid rock. The path then continues without protection to the right, heading toward a small gully. Here, a boulder blocks the way and is easily overcome thanks to a metal ladder. The climb continues on a steep, unprotected trail, to be followed by watching for cairns and red paint marks, then bends left onto a partially equipped section. This leads to a wide, military-era artificial ledge, safe to walk along, which brings you to the base of a chimney. The ascent of the chimney, developed on compact limestone, is done on the left side: an initial athletic move leads to a series of rungs that aid progression in the upper, narrower part. Emerging from the tight passage, you find yourself on a vertical wall well-supplied with natural and artificial holds, which bends to the right. Continue on the ferrata to a wall about twenty meters high, to be climbed to the right with continuous but well-protected climbing. This is the last significant section: tackle a debris-filled gully with the safety cable on your right, then reach, with a final trail section, the summit of Punta Ovest del Forame (2318 m). The top, reached in about 1 hour from the start of the ferrata (3h 30' total), offers a magnificent 360-degree panorama of Croda Rossa d'Ampezzo, Monte Cristallo, and Popena. The character of the ferrata is predominantly vertical and athletic in the chimney, then becomes more linear and panoramic in the final sections.

Descent

The return begins by descending the opposite (southeast) side on a steep, rocky trail, following red markers until you reach Forcella Gialla (2400 m). From here, continue toward Forcella Verde (2380 m) on an up-and-down ridge route. This section, though not equipped, is the heart of the descent experience: it winds along a sharp, rocky ridge with exposed passages requiring attention, alternating with short grassy stretches. Upon reaching Forcella Verde, take the trail 233 to the left, which descends at a steady gradient through the wild and isolated Val Pra del Vecia until it returns to Passo di Cimabianche. The descent takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes from the summit, for a total hike time of about 6 hours. The pace is therefore uneven: initially challenging on the ridge, it becomes more monotonous but physically demanding during the long valley descent.

Useful Notes

The De Pol Ferrata presents no particular technical difficulties on the equipped sections, which are well-protected. The most challenging passage remains the chimney, still of medium difficulty (UIAA grade II-III). The part requiring the most attention is the ridge trail on the descent, which is advisable to tackle only in stable weather conditions, as it is loose, exposed, and potentially slippery in rain or wind. Considering the overall length of the itinerary, the total elevation gain, and the rather isolated environment, especially on the descent through Val Pra del Vecia, adequate physical preparation, complete equipment, and choosing a favorable day are essential. Note that due to a landslide, it is no longer possible to descend directly toward the Ristorante Ospitale from Forcella Verde. For navigation, the use of detailed maps of the Sesto Dolomites or Cortina and the Ampezzo Dolomites is recommended. The itinerary as a whole combines a short section of protected climbing with a long and spectacular ridge traverse, offering a complete alpine experience in a historic and scenic setting.