Ferrata Cengia Gabriella

Overview

The Ferrata alla Cengia Gabriella is one of the most varied and spectacular routes in the Sesto Dolomites. Technically rated as medium difficulty, its real challenge lies in its considerable length and elevation gain, demanding excellent physical fitness and solid alpine experience. This traversing itinerary connects the Bivacco Brigata di Cadore with the Rifugio Carducci, running high along the flank of the mighty south face of Monte Giralba. Its length, combined with approach and return times, makes it a classic stage for multi-day excursions, often combined with other via ferratas in the area.

Approach

Access to the via ferrata depends on the direction you choose to travel. Two main approaches are possible.

The first option, described here, involves tackling the Ferrata alla Cengia Gabriella from east to west, starting from the side of the Bivacco Battaglione di Cadore. The logical starting point is the Rifugio Lunelli, reachable from the Passo Monte Croce di Comelico. From here, you traverse the entire Ferrata Roghel, which includes the climb to Rifugio Berti, progression to Forcella delle Guglie, and the subsequent descent to the junction of trails 109 and 110, just above the bivouac. This approach takes about 3 hours and 45 minutes from the parking lot.

The second option, for those intending to travel the ferrata in the opposite direction (west to east), starts from Rifugio Carducci. Currently, due to a landslide on the trail from Giralba, access is via the Dolomitenhof hotel in Val Fiscalina. From there, you ascend to Rifugio Comici, climb to Forcella Giralba, and descend to Rifugio Carducci, for a total of about 3 hours and 30 minutes.

Via Ferrata

From the scree slope above the Bivacco del Battaglione Cadore, continue in an ascending traverse toward the northeast face of Monte Giralba. Following the tracks, you'll encounter the first cables, which allow you to overcome a short, well-stepped vertical section, the only pitch of its kind in the initial phase. A sequence of ups and downs then begins, leading to a wide but very exposed ledge, which is traversed without particular difficulty. This marks the start of the route's core: a long ledge that develops in a south-southwest direction, alternating cabled sections with unprotected trail passages. The morphology is classic Dolomite, with solid rock and ledges often carved into the face. Exposure on the left side is constant, but the terrain is generally easy, and the unprotected sections run over compact scree.

After an easy stretch, you encounter a descending cabled ramp, where you begin to round the south face, gradually changing direction toward the east. You then pass under an exposed but protected rock roof before heading toward a tower with a steeper climb on rock. Approaching the bastion, you traverse a very airy and adrenaline-pumping ledge section, excellently protected by steel cables. The ledge ends, and the cable rises vertically to the right over small rocks and then onto a rocky ramp.

Continue with a traverse to the left, then climb diagonally toward a narrow ledge that skirts the south ridge of the mountain, reaching a panoramic saddle after about 2 hours from the start. From here, the view opens up over the Val Giralba Alta, the Croda dei Toni, and, below, Rifugio Carducci. From the saddle, a descending ledge section on a false flat leads to a subsequent protected vertical section in descent. You descend several vertical rock steps alternating with short horizontal stretches, following the red marks and cables in a rapid loss of elevation. This passage is airy but well-stepped, mitigating the feeling of exposure.

The descent continues to a notch in the rock that gives access to a steep gully. This gully is arguably the most challenging section of the entire Ferrata alla Cengia Gabriella. The first meters are very steep and unprotected, while in the lower part, on the left side, you'll find some fixed alpine ropes that help you proceed safely. You exit the gully after about 45 minutes from the saddle (about 2 hours and 45 minutes from the start of the ferrata).

The trail now descends over scree toward the southern spur of Monte Giralba until it meets trail 103. From the junction, turn right uphill to reach Rifugio Carducci in about 45 minutes, for a total of about 3 hours and 30 minutes from the start of the ferrata.

Descent

Having completed the Ferrata alla Cengia Gabriella, the excursion has already taken about 6 hours of walking. A quick return to the starting point is complex, making it necessary to plan an overnight stay or a loop itinerary. Several options are possible.

From Rifugio Carducci, to return to Rifugio Lunelli, you can take the Ferrata Strada degli Alpini, descend to Passo della Sentinella, continue through Val Popera to Rifugio Berti, and finally descend back to Lunelli. This route takes about 7 hours from Carducci.

Alternatively, from the junction with trail 103, you could descend along Val Giralba and ascend Val Stalata toward the bivouac, then descend again via the Ferrata Roghel. However, it's important to note that the ascent trail in Val Giralba is currently closed due to a landslide. Given this situation, the Ferrata alla Cengia Gabriella is practically feasible only within multi-day itineraries in the Sesto Dolomites.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata alla Cengia Gabriella is a long and demanding itinerary. The ferrata section can be ideally divided into three parts: an initial and a final section that are more vertical but with good holds, and a central section characterized by long airy ledges, exposed but never technically difficult. The main difficulty lies in the overall length, the elevation gain, and the isolated, wild environment between Rifugio Berti and Rifugio Carducci. Meticulous planning is essential, with particular attention to weather forecasts.

This route lends itself perfectly to being combined with other ferratas in the group, such as the Ferrata Roghel and the Ferrata Strada degli Alpini, to create multi-day traverses. Other possibilities include the Ferrata Severino Casara from the Croda dei Toni, the Zandonella or dei Costoni ferratas on the Croda Rossa di Sesto, or, on the Comelico side, the recent Ferrata Bepi Martini.