Ferrata del Porton

Overview

The Ferrata del Porton is a historic vertical itinerary set in the southern sector of the San Martino Dolomites, within the Pale group. This challenging loop begins at the top station of the Col Rosetta cable car, unfolds with a long approach toward Rifugio Pradidali, culminates in the equipped ascent to Forcella Porton, and concludes with an equally involved return. The absolute elevation gain is not extreme, but the considerable length of the route and the endurance required classify it as an excursion to be carefully evaluated, suitable for experienced and well-trained hikers. The character of the itinerary is predominantly physical, with long stretches of hiking and a via ferrata that demands continuous, sustained progression.

Approach

Access is from the Col Verde cable car parking lot in San Martino di Castrozza, Trentino, well connected from Val di Fiemme via Passo Rolle or from State Road 50. From the top station below Col Rosetta (2633 m), an easy descending trail leads to Rifugio Rosetta Pedrotti (2581 m). From here, take trail 702 heading south, with an initial moderate climb toward Passo di Val di Roda, followed by a long, steady descent with switchbacks into the valley between Cima Rosetta and Croda di Roda. The route then bends east, rounding Croda di Roda and skirting the eastern flank of Pala di San Martino on a wide, panoramic trail. At the next junction, leave trail 702 to stay on the high-level trail 715 toward Rifugio Pradidali. This section, after passing Pala di San Martino, becomes more technical, developing along rocky ledges and exposed passages, some of which are equipped with cables; maximum caution is mandatory on wet rock or residual snow, which is common even late in the season due to the northern exposure. Continuing with a steady climb, you gain Passo di Ball (2443 m), reached in about 1 hour and 45 minutes from the cable car. Ignoring the track toward Forcella Stephen (access to the Sentiero Attrezzato Gusella), descend to the right on trail 715 along a valley to Rifugio Pradidali (2278 m), situated in a splendid basin dominated by Cima Canali; the total time from the start is about 2 hours. From the refuge, follow trail 739 west toward Forcella del Porton, with an initial gentle climb followed by a steep and sometimes exposed descent into the Vallone Pradidali. The descent leads to the start of the via ferrata on the eastern walls of Cima Ball, reached in about 30 minutes from the refuge (2 hours and 30 minutes total). The approach alternates fast sections with more technical passages, gradually preparing you for the vertical environment.

Via Ferrata

After the first few horizontal equipped meters, the route asserts itself with a long, continuous succession of solid metal rungs ascending a compact slab. This is followed by an exposed but not difficult traverse, equipped with a cable and a few pegs, traversed diagonally along a discontinuous ledge. After a short descent, you tackle another wall equipped with rungs. Once past this sequence, you reach a narrow ledge to the left, then a new vertical slab equipped with rungs that, in its upper part, bends left. Rounding a corner, you traverse another diagonal before encountering a new series of rungs climbing vertically; from here, you enjoy a beautiful view of Rifugio Pradidali and the height gained. After the traverse, you climb exposed rungs and then follow the rock profile diagonally with close-to-the-rock but not difficult passages. The climb continues with a new series of slightly overhanging rungs, considered the physically most demanding passage of the route, where muscular endurance is tested more than technique. You proceed diagonally toward another vertical step; after overcoming it and rounding a corner, you spot the gully to ascend to reach the notch. Now you face a short equipped descent on slightly overhanging rock, to be tackled decisively to avoid unnecessarily tiring your arms. Reaching the debris-filled gully, you ascend it following the track until you notice, on the left, a red mark indicating the resumption of the equipment. You traverse some rocky steps diagonally and find yourself facing a solid metal ladder about 8 meters long. Climb it, exiting to the right onto a diagonal traverse equipped with rungs and pegs. With the final meters of climbing, you gain the characteristic notch of Forcella Porton (2460 m). The time for the via ferrata is about 1 hour and 30 minutes from the start (about 2 hours and 15 minutes from Rifugio Pradidali, for a total of about 4 hours and 45 minutes from the start of the excursion). The via ferrata unfolds as a rhythmic sequence of vertical steps and traverses, offering a continuous and highly panoramic experience.

Descent

From Forcella Porton, the long return begins. A crucial junction immediately presents itself: you can descend via trail 739B toward Val Vecia, tackling the Ferrata della Vecia and reaching the junction with trail 713 in about 40 minutes. Alternatively, you can descend to Rifugio Madonna del Velo (2358 m) in about 1 hour, following the Ferrata del Velo; from the refuge, staying on trail 713 with a moderate gradient, you rejoin the previous option in about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Regardless of the choice, once on trail 713, continue to the ruins of Malga Sopra Ronz. Here, staying on the forest road (marker 22), continue on a gentle grade northward. After about 20 minutes, follow markers 724 and then 702 to return to the cable car parking lot. The descent time from Forcella Porton is about 3 hours, for a total loop time of about 8 hours. The descent is an involved route, with possible technical variants, requiring further attention to planning and managing fatigue.

Useful Notes

The Ferrata del Porton is overall of moderate difficulty. Progression is greatly aided by the presence of numerous metal rungs on the most vertical sections, making it a physical rather than technical climb. However, three specific passages deserve particular attention: the exposed traverse, the descent on overhanging rock, and the ascent of the debris-filled gully. The itinerary requires good physical fitness, both for the via ferrata itself-which unfolds as a long series of vertical steps-and for the approach and return, both long and with significant elevation changes. Caution in the gullies, especially the one below Forcella Porton and those just before the start: being enclosed between the high walls of Cima Ball and facing north, they can hold snow even late in the season, making passage treacherous. In the upper part of the route, some channels ascend through areas with loose, unstable terrain, requiring prudence in choosing footholds. For maps, a detailed map of the Paneveggio Pale di San Martino Natural Park is recommended. The environment is typically Dolomitic, with solid rock but prone to ice formation in cracks.