Ferrata Gabitta d'Ignoti

Overview

The Ferrata Gabitta d'Ignoti is a demanding and spectacular high-altitude link that connects the wild Val di Strutt to the summit of Cima Vezzana, the highest peak in the Pale di San Martino group. This loop itinerary, which uses the cable car for the approach, unfolds in a severe and deeply captivating alpine environment. It requires solid physical fitness, well-established mountain experience, and stable weather conditions. The route combines a long approach, exposed trail sections, the ascent of the via ferrata, and a challenging descent through the snow-filled couloir of the Val dei Cantoni, offering a complete and immersive experience.

Approach

The starting point is the lower station of the Col Verde cable car in San Martino di Castrozza, Trentino, reachable from the Val di Fiemme, Passo Rolle, or the SS50 state road. It is advisable to park in the large lot. The described itinerary tackles the Ferrata Gabitta d'Ignoti on the ascent, climbing the Val di Strutt, and is an alternative to the classic route that descends it from the Cima Vezzana side. Given the length, it is possible to split it over two days, using the Rifugio Pedrotti, the Bivacco Brunner, or the Bivacco Fiamme Gialle for overnight stays.

Take the cable car first to Col Verde and then to the Rifugio Rosetta (2633 m). From here, descend for about 15 minutes towards the Rifugio Vezzana Pedrotti (2581 m) to pick up Sentiero 703 heading east, following signs for Val Strutt and Passo delle Farangole. Ignore a junction with Sentiero 707 for Forcella de Miel, keeping left on the descent. Shortly after, another junction with Sentiero 756 is ignored, continuing always on the 703 northward until entering the Valle delle Comelle. The trail is pleasant and without difficulty.

Once at the Pian dei Cantoni, at the base of a wide valley, leave the Val dei Cantoni on your left (which will be used for the descent) and continue on Sentiero 703 towards Passo Farangole, ignoring the turnoff for the 704. You then enter the Sentiero delle Farangole: the route winds through a system of ledges and rocky steps cutting across the slope. After a pleasant stretch, you encounter a short equipped passage, beyond which the trail becomes more exposed, though well-protected at critical points. Proceed through this exceptional environment until reaching the head of the Val Strutt. Near a signpost, leave Sentiero 703 for Passo delle Farangole and keep left to ascend the valley along Sentiero 716. The walking time to this point is about 2 hours and 30 minutes from the upper cable car station.

The ascent of the steep Val Strutt requires caution, as the trail and markers are not always obvious. The valley, enclosed between imposing dolomite walls, has a floor of unstable debris and boulders. After about 30 minutes from the junction, you reach the Bivacco Brunner (2667 m), situated beneath the walls of Le Ziroccole. Continue climbing up the valley, where there are two snowfields whose size varies by season. In the final stretch, where markings are absent, it is essential to look for the trail in the center of the valley to spot the signpost marking the start of the ferrata. Pay maximum attention to avoid ending up at the start of the old route, now almost dismantled: the correct trail is on the left side of the scree slope and soon shows a cord, while the track continuing to the right leads to a wall and the old ferrata. The total time from the start of the hike is about 3 hours and 30 minutes.

Via Ferrata

From the signpost, head to the left side of the valley. Initially climb an unstable gully, a couloir of debris where you must move with great caution, until reaching the first fixed ropes. The route is divided into two distinct equipped sections, separated by a connecting stretch.

The first section unfolds over vertical steps and rocky outcrops, then makes a traverse to the left. The rhythm is broken, with short technical moves interspersed with rests. This is followed by the connecting stretch, which runs along a ledge and trail, offering a break from the vertical effort. You then encounter the second equipped section, which climbs diagonally across a slab and then continues over easy rock steps equipped with cable. This segment is more continuous and linear. Once the equipment ends, follow the trail and the now-faded red markers towards Cima Vezzana. Before gaining the summit, it is worth turning your gaze to the wild Val Strutt just ascended and the sharp peaks that dominate it. The final climb leads to the highest peak of the Pale di San Martino. The ferrata takes about 45 minutes, for a total time of 4 hours and 15 minutes from the start of the hike.

Descent

To complete the loop, descend from the opposite side, towards Passo di Travignolo. Leave Cima Vezzana following Sentiero 716, admiring the remains of the Ghiacciaio del Travignolo on the right from above. Walk a stretch of airy ridge and descend, generally on a snowfield traversed in zigzags, to the Passo di Travignolo (2985 m), reached in about 40 minutes from the summit.

Here begins the challenging descent along the snowfield of the Val dei Cantoni, a wide and sloping couloir. The extent of snow cover and the presence of crevasses, generally concentrated in the lower part, vary seasonally. The descent requires a steady and continuous step. Along the valley, you encounter some short equipped stretches and a couple of exposed passages on snow. Once the descent of the couloir is finished (about 1 hour from the bivouac), follow Sentiero 716, which cuts across the slope to the right on a slight ascent, up to the Passo Bettega (2658 m).

From the pass, continuing downhill, you meet a junction: to the right, descend steeply towards Col Verde, while keeping right continues on a trail without difficulty towards the Rifugio Pedrotti (2581 m) and, finally, uphill to the upper cable car station at the Rifugio Rosetta (2678 m). The descent time from Passo di Travignolo is about 2 hours and 45 minutes, for a total of 7 hours from the start of the itinerary.

Useful Notes

The equipped sections of the Ferrata Gabitta d'Ignoti present a low to medium technical difficulty. However, do not be fooled: the entire itinerary requires considerable effort, with an absolute elevation gain greater than the net one due to continuous ups and downs. The Sentiero delle Farangole, the ascent of the Val di Strutt, the final approach stretch, and the descent from Cima Vezzana demand alpine experience and adequate preparation, more than specific via ferrata skills. The character of the route is more physical and endurance-based than technical, with long stretches of walking in rugged terrain. The view from the summit, on clear days, amply repays the effort, spanning the entire Pale di San Martino group and the other northern Dolomites.

Attention to the start of the route: if ascending from the Val di Strutt, it is essential to locate the new route (on the left of the scree slope, with a cord) and not be drawn to the old itinerary, now abandoned and still indicated on outdated maps. For cartography, the map of the Parco Naturale Paneveggio e Pale di San Martino is recommended.